Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Wolverine, we run 4 air temperature sensors when testing;

one ambient, located in front of the intercooler

one air inlet, located at the air filter

one turbo outlet, located between the turbo and the intercooler

one engine inlet, located just before the throttle body

Thermo couples fit between the silicone hose & clamps and the alloy pipework.

Intercooler efficiency is expressed as a percentage, which I calculate this way...........

intercooler inlet temperature (say 50)

minus

the intercooler outlet air temperature (say 30)

divided by

the intercooler inlet temperature (say 50)

minus

the ambient temperature (say 25)

Thus (50-30)/(50-25) = 80%

We commonly see numbers in the 70's

this is the air temp sensor we use

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0807/cms/article.html

Hope that helps

I have been running a Jaycar thermometer for about 18months in my car, it is located just before the bend going into the throttle body (near turbo etc)

On the dyno (with dyno cell temps approx 25 degrees) it was holding 30 degrees after 3 runs. The dyno operator (Shaun at Boostworx) was impressed with the cooler, saying the thermo wrap that covers most of the plubming must be working a charm

On road it seems to be about 5-10 degrees above ambient, at traffic lights etc it goes quite high, on one summers day it got to 85 degrees while at some traffic lights

The thermometer cost me about $15 from memory, I will take a few pics of it

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...