Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey. Gotta take the old skyline to get sum suspension tommoro. App at 730 in the morning. Car runs pretty well in all areas for now except cold start. Mechanically I've been over everything many times. I've just put new injectors of a similar size injectors. My problem for now is it's hairy when cold. Too much throttle and it will die. I think my injectors are slightly smaller than previous ones. I had 550 and I think these are 525 ish Mabey even 500.

Anything I can to with my laptop to get it out the driveway in the morning without having to belt the shit out of it?

add more fuel to your water temp correction table...

1st column is when your l oad is at 1792, i.e. no load

2nd column is when your load is at 8960, which is approximately atmospheric, i.e. 0.00 psi

post-22311-0-98247100-1419374562_thumb.jpg

ECU will interpolate between the two to determine how much correction is required...

so now when your car is super cold, say 30c you see in the example there will be 14% more fuel on no load and 29% more fuel when you hit atmospheric..

Now just play around with those numbers till your AFRs richen up vs. water temp

Something I would aim for

30c = 13.5 AFR

50c = 14 AFR

80c = 14.7 AFR

Also if you have issues cranking at whatever temperature the cranking table will address that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...