Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

love ya thread Geoff..

I used exhaust heat wrap.. Cos i already had a massive roll of it!

I had considered the wetsuit option a few times..

that would spin people out when they looked at it!lol

Speaking of heat soak..

I wrapped ALL of my aircon tubes in the engine bay with high quality conduit i got from a truck shop. The suff comes in 7 different sizes... So, i managed to scam a few odd bits of different sizes and put 3 layers of conduit over the tubes. Really helped the heat soak into the aircon after a boost session!

The stuff come unsplit, and looks megga factory too boot.

My 4inch dump pipe is just a finger width from the aircon connectors in the fire wall and the conduit has only just changed shape a small amount.. and it gets VERY VERY hot there! Conduit is still shiny 1.5 years later!

just thought some of you might wonna know how to make the aircon a little cooler while your chasing heat soak issues!

Can i Use the Neoprene on the Dump/Front pipe???/

Thanks

-SeS

???????NO WAY lol unless you want ur car on fire lol.!!!!!!!

use exhaust heat wrap for that or get a shield made up

Edited by R334door(s2)
I have been on the hunt for a cheaper alternative for some thermal shield and decided to try this stuff. Being the datalogger type I have been measuring the outlet temps from my Hybrid Monster FMIC and was very happy, until I put my hand on the crossover pipe and feel the temp after a hard run. All that FMIC cooling goodness wasted.

This Flashtac product is available at Bunnings and maybe other hardware stores and cost about $20 for 10m. It is a layer of aluminium strip, thicker than foil and backed with a tarry adhesive substance.

Sounds interesting, thanks for the report.

Only thing that concerns me is the tarry adhesive... how messy is this stuff, is it easy to remove?

Cheers,

Sounds interesting, thanks for the report.

Only thing that concerns me is the tarry adhesive... how messy is this stuff, is it easy to remove?

Cheers,

its not that bad i have done this 2 months ago and it keeps the heat at bay i mean when i tuch it it doesnt not burn my hand compared to the throtlle body pipe which gets very hot too because off the position off the pipe near the turbo i suggest doit and find out for your self works for me.

too remove the tarry adhesive get some thinners or something like that to remove it cant be that difficult.

Edited by R334door(s2)

This is a good Thread. I just did this mod today, here's some pics. There were 3 sizes of this tape at my local Bunnings in Brisbane. The one pictured was $21 for 10 metres. It also came in packages of 3 metres, both narrow and wide (like this one pictured) diameter rolls for around $9 and $12 respectively.

I recently did an oil cooler relocation from behind the FMIC to the driver's side guard of my RB25 180SX, and air that use to cool down from the intercooler was heating back up again as the oil cooler was just next to the pipe down in the guard area - Similar situation with the change of the cast manifold to a stainless item, the intake pipe was getting hot to the touch, but now only feels warm.

dsc0729ce1.th.jpg.dsc0730gu1.th.jpg.dsc0731ks3.th.jpg.dsc0732xl4.th.jpg

Before;

dsc0721an8.th.jpg

After

dsc0737nh1.th.jpg

FMIC driver's side pipe insulated from the driver's side oil cooler

dsc0740bs0.th.jpg

It was a sorry sight to see the clean pipework go, but this is a useful modification, not a pretty one.

Time for the air box enclosure mod tomorrow :D

Edited by silman
This is a good Thread. I just did this mod today, here's some pics. There were 3 sizes of this tape at my local Bunnings in Brisbane. The one pictured was $21 for 10 metres. It also came in packages of 3 metres, both narrow and wide (like this one pictured) diameter rolls for around $9 and $12 respectively.

I recently did an oil cooler relocation from behind the FMIC to the driver's side guard of my RB25 180SX, and air that use to cool down from the intercooler was heating back up again as the oil cooler was just next to the pipe down in the guard area - Similar situation with the change of the cast manifold to a stainless item, the intake pipe was getting hot to the touch, but now only feels warm.

dsc0729ce1.th.jpg.dsc0730gu1.th.jpg.dsc0731ks3.th.jpg.dsc0732xl4.th.jpg

Before;

dsc0721an8.th.jpg

After

dsc0737nh1.th.jpg

FMIC driver's side pipe insulated from the driver's side oil cooler

dsc0740bs0.th.jpg

It was a sorry sight to see the clean pipework go, but this is a useful modification, not a pretty one.

Time for the air box enclosure mod tomorrow :D

well done :D doesn't look bad at all you do notice the difference thoe with pipe temps with the air box i just used that heat resistant foam from clark rubber does the job well

just make sure the reflective side is exposed to the heat.Does a good job off keeping the heat away from the pod.There's a post some where in the DIY some where lol.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey guys,

I have been meaning to do something like this for a while as my intake temps get way too hot at the moment and its sapping all the power. I was unsure what material to use on all the intake piping, but I think i am going to try out the flash tack stuff and see how it goes. Just an idea too, i am a bit worried about getting it off if i have too as well, so i am considering wrapping the pipes in an electrical tape or something similar first to prevent the tar sticking. You may still have to clean off the tape residue when it heats, but that would be easier than the tar i would imagine.

I am also installing a pod shield that i am going to line with either the flash tak or high density foam/rubber, and properly vent my oil cooler (positioned on passenger side vent) into the wheel well.

I have put this on my cross over pipe since reading this thread and am still thinking of doing my intercooler pipes but a bit hesitant cos it can be a real prick to get off if you need to (also takes lots of care and patience to make it look decent, but will still have marks and wrinkles in it). If it peels off in one piece its easy but I dont see that happening easy after weeks and months because I tried getting a bit off after only minutes and it was a pain (especially if you dont want to scratch your piping. Turps helps lots) Works a treat but when its heated it gets soft so I would not put it on anything that gets too hot.. Ie: As hot as your cross over pipe would get if you did'nt wrap it first. Oil lines would be a bad idea as well as anything that radiates heat from what is going thru it (cross over pipe heats up but not from what is running thru it) I will be putting this on the outside of my cold air box to keep the heat at bay... so to speak :thumbsup:

Not sure how hot the return line would get so I would go back to what I said before and not put it on anything that gets hotter than your cross over pipe or anything that it goes near to... since I have personally only done this on my cross over pipe, then that is all I can go by really... the tar does get soft tho, and you can move it about with your hand when it is, but it would'nt just fall off or start dripping... I'd suggest putting a small piece on and checking it after a good session to guage whether its the right thing to use (3mtr length goes for about $9, 10mtr for about $20, thats for the 48mm wide stuff)

Edited by partyboy73

At my work we sell air-cell glareshield, its a product that is used to insulation in the building industry, i was going to use some if this in my engine bay for cooling etc. its probably not affordable really to buy to do your car with but its would be great for this purpose i reckon. its like a foil on both sides and bubble wrap in the middle, its designed for keeping heat out of housing etc.

http://www.air-cell.com.au/pages/products.htm

i reckon this would be great for cooler piping and cai boxes etc. one day i will give it a go i think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...