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Thermal shield for FMIC pipes


GTRgeoff
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  • 3 years later...
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love ya thread Geoff..

I used exhaust heat wrap.. Cos i already had a massive roll of it!

I had considered the wetsuit option a few times..

that would spin people out when they looked at it!lol

Speaking of heat soak..

I wrapped ALL of my aircon tubes in the engine bay with high quality conduit i got from a truck shop. The suff comes in 7 different sizes... So, i managed to scam a few odd bits of different sizes and put 3 layers of conduit over the tubes. Really helped the heat soak into the aircon after a boost session!

The stuff come unsplit, and looks megga factory too boot.

My 4inch dump pipe is just a finger width from the aircon connectors in the fire wall and the conduit has only just changed shape a small amount.. and it gets VERY VERY hot there! Conduit is still shiny 1.5 years later!

just thought some of you might wonna know how to make the aircon a little cooler while your chasing heat soak issues!

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Can i Use the Neoprene on the Dump/Front pipe???/

Thanks

-SeS

???????NO WAY lol unless you want ur car on fire lol.!!!!!!!

use exhaust heat wrap for that or get a shield made up

Edited by R334door(s2)
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I have been on the hunt for a cheaper alternative for some thermal shield and decided to try this stuff. Being the datalogger type I have been measuring the outlet temps from my Hybrid Monster FMIC and was very happy, until I put my hand on the crossover pipe and feel the temp after a hard run. All that FMIC cooling goodness wasted.

This Flashtac product is available at Bunnings and maybe other hardware stores and cost about $20 for 10m. It is a layer of aluminium strip, thicker than foil and backed with a tarry adhesive substance.

Sounds interesting, thanks for the report.

Only thing that concerns me is the tarry adhesive... how messy is this stuff, is it easy to remove?

Cheers,

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Sounds interesting, thanks for the report.

Only thing that concerns me is the tarry adhesive... how messy is this stuff, is it easy to remove?

Cheers,

its not that bad i have done this 2 months ago and it keeps the heat at bay i mean when i tuch it it doesnt not burn my hand compared to the throtlle body pipe which gets very hot too because off the position off the pipe near the turbo i suggest doit and find out for your self works for me.

too remove the tarry adhesive get some thinners or something like that to remove it cant be that difficult.

Edited by R334door(s2)
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This is a good Thread. I just did this mod today, here's some pics. There were 3 sizes of this tape at my local Bunnings in Brisbane. The one pictured was $21 for 10 metres. It also came in packages of 3 metres, both narrow and wide (like this one pictured) diameter rolls for around $9 and $12 respectively.

I recently did an oil cooler relocation from behind the FMIC to the driver's side guard of my RB25 180SX, and air that use to cool down from the intercooler was heating back up again as the oil cooler was just next to the pipe down in the guard area - Similar situation with the change of the cast manifold to a stainless item, the intake pipe was getting hot to the touch, but now only feels warm.

dsc0729ce1.th.jpg.dsc0730gu1.th.jpg.dsc0731ks3.th.jpg.dsc0732xl4.th.jpg

Before;

dsc0721an8.th.jpg

After

dsc0737nh1.th.jpg

FMIC driver's side pipe insulated from the driver's side oil cooler

dsc0740bs0.th.jpg

It was a sorry sight to see the clean pipework go, but this is a useful modification, not a pretty one.

Time for the air box enclosure mod tomorrow :D

Edited by silman
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This is a good Thread. I just did this mod today, here's some pics. There were 3 sizes of this tape at my local Bunnings in Brisbane. The one pictured was $21 for 10 metres. It also came in packages of 3 metres, both narrow and wide (like this one pictured) diameter rolls for around $9 and $12 respectively.

I recently did an oil cooler relocation from behind the FMIC to the driver's side guard of my RB25 180SX, and air that use to cool down from the intercooler was heating back up again as the oil cooler was just next to the pipe down in the guard area - Similar situation with the change of the cast manifold to a stainless item, the intake pipe was getting hot to the touch, but now only feels warm.

dsc0729ce1.th.jpg.dsc0730gu1.th.jpg.dsc0731ks3.th.jpg.dsc0732xl4.th.jpg

Before;

dsc0721an8.th.jpg

After

dsc0737nh1.th.jpg

FMIC driver's side pipe insulated from the driver's side oil cooler

dsc0740bs0.th.jpg

It was a sorry sight to see the clean pipework go, but this is a useful modification, not a pretty one.

Time for the air box enclosure mod tomorrow :D

well done :D doesn't look bad at all you do notice the difference thoe with pipe temps with the air box i just used that heat resistant foam from clark rubber does the job well

just make sure the reflective side is exposed to the heat.Does a good job off keeping the heat away from the pod.There's a post some where in the DIY some where lol.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey guys,

I have been meaning to do something like this for a while as my intake temps get way too hot at the moment and its sapping all the power. I was unsure what material to use on all the intake piping, but I think i am going to try out the flash tack stuff and see how it goes. Just an idea too, i am a bit worried about getting it off if i have too as well, so i am considering wrapping the pipes in an electrical tape or something similar first to prevent the tar sticking. You may still have to clean off the tape residue when it heats, but that would be easier than the tar i would imagine.

I am also installing a pod shield that i am going to line with either the flash tak or high density foam/rubber, and properly vent my oil cooler (positioned on passenger side vent) into the wheel well.

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I have put this on my cross over pipe since reading this thread and am still thinking of doing my intercooler pipes but a bit hesitant cos it can be a real prick to get off if you need to (also takes lots of care and patience to make it look decent, but will still have marks and wrinkles in it). If it peels off in one piece its easy but I dont see that happening easy after weeks and months because I tried getting a bit off after only minutes and it was a pain (especially if you dont want to scratch your piping. Turps helps lots) Works a treat but when its heated it gets soft so I would not put it on anything that gets too hot.. Ie: As hot as your cross over pipe would get if you did'nt wrap it first. Oil lines would be a bad idea as well as anything that radiates heat from what is going thru it (cross over pipe heats up but not from what is running thru it) I will be putting this on the outside of my cold air box to keep the heat at bay... so to speak :thumbsup:

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Not sure how hot the return line would get so I would go back to what I said before and not put it on anything that gets hotter than your cross over pipe or anything that it goes near to... since I have personally only done this on my cross over pipe, then that is all I can go by really... the tar does get soft tho, and you can move it about with your hand when it is, but it would'nt just fall off or start dripping... I'd suggest putting a small piece on and checking it after a good session to guage whether its the right thing to use (3mtr length goes for about $9, 10mtr for about $20, thats for the 48mm wide stuff)

Edited by partyboy73
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At my work we sell air-cell glareshield, its a product that is used to insulation in the building industry, i was going to use some if this in my engine bay for cooling etc. its probably not affordable really to buy to do your car with but its would be great for this purpose i reckon. its like a foil on both sides and bubble wrap in the middle, its designed for keeping heat out of housing etc.

http://www.air-cell.com.au/pages/products.htm

i reckon this would be great for cooler piping and cai boxes etc. one day i will give it a go i think.

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