Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Slave Cylinders

Staged_rs4
 Share

Recommended Posts

Staged_rs4 Explorer

Staged_rs4

Posted
Posted

Hi all

Can someone tell me the difference between slave cylinders for RB25 boxes? One is straight and one is right angled.

I have the right angled one, my clutch take up point is very low, practically at end of pedal travel.

Does anyone know if the straight one has the same mounting bolt diameter as angled? And does the straight have a longer travel?

Its for a conversion and bought the box without a slave. So can't just replace old with new.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454879-rb25-slave-cylinders/
Share on other sites
Staged_rs4 Explorer

Staged_rs4

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hopefully these two photos clear up what I mean. I have the slave shown in top photo. I also have the nismo 13/16" unit.

Is there a difference between these aside from hose thread and blees nipple location? Im hoping there is two different types of slaves for 25 box, one with a longer rod?

There is no pedal box adjustment for my car. The clutch master rod is also adjusted all way out

post-58086-0-47044300-1426747122_thumb.png

post-58086-0-55902900-1426747226_thumb.png

Edited by Staged_rs4
Staged_rs4 Explorer

Staged_rs4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im certain the system is bled.

I bought a larger slave due to choosing a button clutch kit with an option of a heavier clamping pressure plate. Slight hydraulic advantage would give a slightly easier pedal to push.

The box is bolted to an FJ20. All Exedy heavy duty button clutch kits, listed for R33, R32, RB20/RB25, S12 Silvia/FJ20 are all the same part number. Thought the release bearing might be different heights for each model, but same bearing in all kits.

Clutch is 100% installed correctly. Can only go on one way anyway.

I can feel the release bearing pushing the pressure plate fingers through the pedal, however as said this at the end of pedal travel.

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

You'll be reducing the throw on the slave more with the nismo making the problem worse assuming the rod length is the same. You need to pull the stock one to compare.

You could just make a longer slave rod to get it in to adjustment if required. If you have a hacksaw and a bench grinder you can go and buy some 4140 steel rod and cut to the length you want. It wouldn't need much more length by the sound of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...