Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep - that makes sense - Thanks SK.

BTW - You don't happen to know if the above pinouts are correct for the Q45 do you ??

ie:

Flow

=======>Turbo

1 2 3

1 = Ignition (12V)

2= AFM Signal

3 = AFM Ground

Cause when I wire it up like this it doesn't start - (I know it is something to do with the AFM cause the Y31 AFM works) ie I have the AFM wired wrong or it is busted,

Cheers,

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yup - getting 12V (ign), 0V (Gnd) and varying volts (signal) from the ECU.

PFC monitor on the AFM setting shows varying volts (1.1 and up , if recall) with the Y31 AFM installed but with the Q45 - I get 0.5V and it doesn't change cause it won't start.

BTW - from memory, my wires are different colours to yours.

From memory - I have (from the ECU)

Orange/Blue - Signal Wire

Black/White - 12V Power

Blue/White - ECU Earth

Yup - getting 12V (ign), 0V (Gnd) and varying volts (signal) from the ECU.

PFC monitor on the AFM setting shows varying volts (1.1 and up , if recall) with the Y31 AFM installed but with the Q45 - I get 0.5V and it doesn't change cause it won't start.

BTW - from memory, my wires are different colours to yours.

From memory - I have (from the ECU)

Orange/Blue - Signal Wire

Black/White - 12V Power

Blue/White - ECU Earth

Which pins are B, D and E on the Q45 ??

Fluting around some more tonight .......

With ignition on only, PFC read out in Monitor reads 540mV when you crank it, it won't start and PFC continues to read 540mV (this is with my Q45 MAF in)

When I take AFM gnd (earth) off the AFM, PFC reads 5100mV and starts, but really really bad idle (which I can understand as the AFM is telling the ECU that I am at max air flow/oxygen density)

When I put the Y31 AFM in - initial AFM reading on the PFC says about ~500mV - when you crank it , PFC reading gradually climbs to 1100-1200 mV and idles fine.

BTW - the Y31 AFM terminals are marked A B C D E F

A= Not used

B= AFM Signal

c= Not used

D= AFM Ground

E= Ignition (12V)

F = Not used

BDE - Chris - maybe this is where you get your BDE from ?? (but not the right pinouts)

I def. don't have BDE or any letters on the Q45 or pins or anywhere.

I still think (hope) that maybe that I have wrong wiring - but don't want to try all combinations in case I blow something up.

OR - the Q45 could be stuffed.

I have searched the web all over the place - and do you think I can find the wiring pinouts for the Q45 ?? Nah - I've even searched on the damn part number of the Q45......

I'm begining to think Z32 is the way to go.......... he he :D

Anyone, Anyone ??

Need to have the car running and tuned by the 27th so I can take it Wakefield and put in a PB.

B-Man,

I may have the info you need. I have the q45 MAF on my car (RB25 in an s14a Silvia Chassis), but it is at home, and I am at work. I am trying to remember, and I believe that the power and ground are reversed from the rb25 MAF (series 2 anyway). I will look when I get home and see what is going on. In the meantime if you want, below is my writeup of how I determeined the correct pinout, so you could do that too if you want.

I couldn't find the info anywhere on the net either and ended up using a voltmeter/ohm-meter to deduce how to hook it up. First, figure out which wire is which from the ECU (I.E. Ground one lead of the ohm-meter on the body of the car/head/block, and touch other lead to the wires from the ECU, the one with Zero ohms is the earth, next switch the ignition on and test for which wire has 5-volts, that is power, the left over one is the signal).

The next part is harder, compare the resistance between the pins on the rb25 MAF to the resistance between the pins of the q45 MAF. I don't remember exactly what the values are, but they roughly similar (I.E. same amount of resistance between the power and earth pins on both MAFS etc). You know what the pins on the rb25 are from the first step. Measure the resistance between the earth pin and signal pin on the 25 AFM, then look for the same reading between two pins on the q45 AFM. When you find the same reading, you know that those are the ground and earth pins, but you don't know which is which. However, you do know now which is the power pin on the q45 (the one that isn't ground or signal), MARK IT!

Now, measure the resistance between the power and signal pins on the rb25 MAF, look for that same resistance between the power pin and one of the two unidentified pins on the q45 MAF. When you have found that, you have found the signal wire. Mark it too. The remaining one is the earth pin.

There you go! Like I said, I think it ends up that the power and earth pins are simply reversed from the rb25, but I don't remember for sure.

Greg Mitchell

P.S. If you can't find similar resistances between pins on the known working MAF and the Q45 MAF, there is a good chance your VH45 MAF is no longer working.

Also sorry about the Americanisms in the post, but that is what I am, and I don't have the time to change them all to Aussie friendly terms, but I did try a little, (earth instead of ground) :thumbsup:

Oh yeah, and typos, I am sure there are some of them mixed in as well. Looks like I also used VH45 and Q45 interchangably, the American version of the President is called called the Q45, so that is where that came from.

I have a Q45 AFM in front of me, it has three pins, they are marked "B D E" above the plug on the body of the AFM. The "B" is closest to the AFM inlet and the "E" closest to the outlet. The plug wiring is as follows;

The white wire goes to B

The black wire goes to D

The red wire (with black stripe) goes to E

The part number is 22680 61U00 A36-000 P60 903F, label is Yellow and this one was made by Jecs (Made in Japan).

I can send you a photo in high res if you need, PM me your email address.

Hi B-Man

I cant help you with the digi pics my camera's were stolen take SK up on his offer cause mine read's the same as his air flow left to right B.D.E. Sorry i cant be of more help

Cheers Peter

Sorry guys,

I've been in Melbourne all week for work. So I haven't done anything.

The P/N on my MAF is 22680 6IU0I A36-000 P61

6Z20A

Nearly the same as SK's excepts for the P60/P61 thing - don't know if that matter.,

Well, if BDE are in the order that SK mentions and BDE are Ign, Sig, Gnd respectvely - the I am wiring it up correctly and I have a stuffed AFM

OR since I have no BDE on the AFM - maybe they are different for the version I have - I'll take a pic

SK - can you please send pic to bfauldsbigpondnetau ? Thanks.....

Greg - I thought about doing it your way - but wsn't sure if the resistances would be similar - I will check that out on the weekend - thanks for the tip ?

I'll let you guys know how I go.

IF anyone has any more info , please post it up - cheers.

Greg Mitchell - you are a farking legend my man........

Measured the resistance betwen gnd and sig/12V on the Y31 AFM - Gnd & Sig = 5.6 Kohms , Gnd and 12V = 12.55 Kohms - between Sig & 12 V = 18.21 K ohms (the sum of 5.6 and 12.55 approx)

Measured resistance between B & D on my Q45 (5.74 Kohms) and then between D & E (12.54 Kohms) and then between B & E (18.09 Kohms)

Therefore I deduced that:

B = Signal (orange/blue)

D = Ground (Blue / White)

E = Ignition 12V (black /white)

Started first pop - lovely ! :D :D ;)

So happy :)

Thanks guys for all your help ! !

Now I need a tune - Chris - mate - send me your maps......;)

Who's the best PFC tuner in Sydney ???????

And for those of you who thought I was making it up when I siad I had no BDE on the AFM - here is the proof (note the BDE in texta , I put that on there - and only works with the above post)

Ignore the I,S,G (in texta) - THIS IS WRONG ! !

Let us know if you experience any strange idle issues.

Steve and I have both had issues due to mesh not being on both sides of the AFM.

Mine used to have a slight idle hunt and slight pop on idle.

The car had problems idling on 600rpm.

With the mesh the tacho needle sits rock solid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...