Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

perth exhaust centre vic park, i got my stainless steel 3" turbo back with high flow cat and s/steel muffler of my choice for $1200 i recall. If you cant they even make the dump pipe just for that tiny extra bit of flow. theres an article in the perth street mag vol9 no4 where they did that plus same system as mine to an s15 giving 15 extra kw at wheels

I got my pipe form the turbo to the cat (dump and front) done a Quick Fit in Morley. Stainless 3" pipe, hand fabricated dump pipe for around $405 from memory.

If you like you could get them to make you a 'flanged' de-cat pipe. Tell them it is for 'off-road use' for when you go to Waneroo or the motor-plex.

The pipe can be swapped with the cat when you need that extra bit of 'GO'. Much better than gutting the cat, should cost less than $100 in stainless. Better still get a de-cat pipe AND a flame-thrower.

Flame thrower; a short flanged pipe with a slight megaphone like flare at the end that exits under the passenger door. This pipe will bolt in place of the cat on race days/dyno days.

Straight out your turbo baby! Big flames and a sound like WW2.

They should be cool making them for you if you specify they are only for special events (like getting your neigbours backs up):P

Originally posted by G0DF4Th3R

i was at Perth exhaust centre an hour ago and Harvey quoted 650 for downpipe and highflow cat but he said that he mostly does 200sx's.  

i was at Cypher the other day and it would cost roughly 700ish for a tuned-length downpipe with a highflow cat.

$700 is alot of money for a peice of pipe that short.

Tuned length? on a turbo downpipe? A mistake surely. The only area where tuned length is required is straight out the cylinder head(manifold), where there is a slowish 'pulsing' of exhaust from each cylinder.

Ring Quick fit in morley, see what their price is like. With the money you save you can buy some exhaust wrap and stainless pipe clamps.

Originally posted by WASSABI

after all that perth exhaust centre got the work for a price similiar to what god father said... i think they have the best reputation

anyway thanks for all the comments

Make sure to get a 'flame thrower' or a decat (doesn't have to be stainless) they would only charge a few bucks to make one I'm sure.

Originally posted by rev210

Make sure to get a 'flame thrower' or a decat (doesn't have to be stainless) they would only charge a few bucks to make one I'm sure.

I'm not in there till tomorrow, what does the flame thrower do? are you serious or just fckin around :P i am getting 3.5 " all way thru then hiflo cat

Originally posted by WASSABI

I'm not in there till tomorrow, what does the flame thrower do? are you serious or just fckin around :P i am getting 3.5 " all way thru then hiflo cat

the Flame thrower, is the exhaust a race car uses, no mufflers just a pipe that exits just under the passeger door. It would be a simple bolt on pipe that goes in place of the cat for race meets/dyno or naughty late night hooning. The de-cat pipe is more practical it just replaces the cat with a straight peice of pipe.

When you take the cat off and put the flame thrower on the exhaust remains in place but nothing comes out the back, flames come out the side.:P

When you take the cat off and put the de-cat in flames come out the back but, it is as quiet as normal.

Flame throwers will give you a significant increase in power and not to mention noise (but they are so much fun!).

:)

If you get it doen right you can swap the exhaust over in 10min or so by undoing 6 bolts, putting the decat of flame thrower in and doing the 6 bolts back up.

Heya Wassabi,

If you already have a cat back exhaust then Brett at PSI can prob help!

I got my full exhaust system (Dump Down pipe and hi flow cat) done with him added 20HP at the wheels, I have the dyno sheets to show this! i was VERY happy with his work and didn't charge too much at all! then i had SAFC and boost wound up a bit and it was another 20HP extra 40HP in 1 day made for quite an excitring drive home...need i say more:uh-huh:

From my experience giv Brett at PSI a call..... some people have had probs but i don't want to start arguments but from the people that i have recommended to him such as IMACUL8 they are more than happy with him!

Originally posted by macka

I took my exhaust off after the downpipe and i DEFINATELY had a power DROP! very noticeable..

U still need some backpressure from turbo i would say

If the factory computer has anything to do with it, I'd say it retarded the timing on you.

Turbo's do not like backpressure at all! Get rid of back pressure on the turbo and power is there for the taking.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...