Jump to content
SAU Community

HKS Boost Controller Problems. Help !

GTRman1992

By GTRman1992,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRman1992 Proficient

GTRman1992

Posted
Posted

Hooked up the HKS EVC boost controller today, and set it up as per the instructions. Anyway, set it at 1.2bar and every run on the Dyno it just seemed to ramp straight up to 21psi when we would abort the run. If we turned it off the boost would stay at 1bar, so it is plumbed ok (I think).

Any suggestions etc ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45605-hks-boost-controller-problems-help/
Share on other sites
meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

GTRman,

A couple of questions..

What version EVC? < doesn't really matter, just helps to know.

Have you completed the "Learning Mode" feature?..

because if you beieve the EBC is fitted correctly, then your problem sounds similar to what I had with my HKS. Turned out I just needed to run a full "Reset", and then run the "Learning Mode" function, as specified in the HKS manual which can be downloaded... all is perfect and IMHO, the HKS is the best when it comes to EBC's.

KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

yeah definately do the learning mode first, makes it run perfect then :)

mesh: i got my evc manual with my car when i bought it :thumbsup: cheers exstatic

its worth having as i needed it to setup with my external gate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...