Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey there boys and girls

i am looking around for the best deal i can get with a big shed

size i am after is 9x11 and height of 4m and to have concrete poured into the shed instead of a slab and to be 200mm thick to be able to fit a hoist

at the moment i have been contacting a couple place and soo far i have been qouted 28k to 32k and the concret cost was about 7-9k that was already included in the qoute

anyone out there know of any good place i should check out??

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/
Share on other sites

The whole slab does not have to be 200mm.

(in fact my slab is ~100mm and I have a hoist). Most hoist manufacturers offer extended footprints (spread the load) on their posts to allow for skinnier slabs :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7529401
Share on other sites

The big metal plate in the pic is an option, however other options are the big metal plate (not as big) actually manufactured as the base plate for the hoist. ie no need for attachment, it is the base.

Contact Gav or Maree at HAPP and ask anything you need to know about installing/specs/slab requirements. Tell em Mike sent you and they will sort you out.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7529420
Share on other sites

That's about right for a shed of that size. My 9x6.5x3.6 was 15k for just the kit, then 6k for concrete (I only did half pad at 200mm for my hoist), then I installed it which was a pain in itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7531820
Share on other sites

Bit of advice, pay someone to do it. A shit tonnes easier, it gets done right the first time and properly, and all those people that offer to help but not show up on the day and it takes you 5 weeks to put it up (may have happened to me)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7533250
Share on other sites

yeahh i was dreading the idea it would take a lot longer if i was going to do it and stuff up.

thanks for the for giving me the idea in only having half the slab 200mm i may do the same just have the area i will have the hoist 200mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7533912
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

alright, shed has gone through council and i will be putting the slab down in a couple of weeks, as this is on a vacant block (not building a house yet) anyone have an idea on how much it would cost to get power hooked up? and any tips on wiring for the shed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7567739
Share on other sites

Get a couple of quotes for wiring, offer the sparky to dig the trench and lay cable down. Also offer to TA for them, pre-run the cable in the shed, anything to make their time at yours less.

Get at least 2x 15amp power points put in just in case you want to get a welder and some hoists run 15amp. Get double fluros for light, I have 2x in each bay lights up like a mofo. I also have 6x double 10amp points, 2x 15amp 1 of which is hanging from the ceiling

I did all the pre-wiring and trench digging for my sparky made it a lot less painful on the bill

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7570957
Share on other sites

pretty much similar to what i was thinking,

and what you mean by pre-wiring is that you have all wiring laid out to where you would have it and the sparky just connects everything, am i right???

how did you run the cables into the shed, i was thinking of something like having some conduit through my slab then underground

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7571417
Share on other sites

Yeah run all the wiring to where you want everything, then the sparky comes and finishes it off.

I ran them from my house fuse box all the way down to the shed, ran the cable through the orange conduit 600mm underground. It now runs under concrete. Was quite a bit of digging but it saved me a lot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7575756
Share on other sites

Just a word of warning. That steel base plate does very little to spread the load. It will be effective for the first 20mm past the standard foot plate (if you're lucky) then the rest is there purely for show. If you want a proper base plate, it needs to be gusseted to properly transfer the loads to the edges, or be much thicker than what's shown in the photo

As for tips on wiring the shed - LOTS of power points (including at least one 15A point). Also LOTS of overhead lighting. You don't need to use it all, but it's infinitely better than having power boards and extension leads all through the shed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7578543
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Bunnings stuff last me a year before having to recoat. That was a year of heavy traffic though as I was working in there everyday.

The more industrial stuff lasts a bit longer but it also costs more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456408-shed-builders/#findComment-7611303
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...