Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G day people I have a 98 gtt only owned it 2 months so I know nothing about these things starts fine idles fine but when I put the hammer down any where from 3500 to 5000 the power will drop out completely.. I thought it blew up .. But still is running... If I drive around just normally it's ok will only drop out when it feels like it have changed the fuel filter thought I might ask before I take it to the shop .. Standard intercooler and turbo 3 inch exhaust k&n air filter cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457364-gtt-r34-engine-miss/
Share on other sites

Hmmmm... I don't think anyone has ever tried anything other than oem coilpacks.

You know modification of r34's never really took off so I don't think there would be very strong aftermarket support for these cars.

Same on why there isn't much info about squeezing power out of them on the net.

great stuff. it's good practice to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm as well. Fresh coil packs should be firing no problem but reducing the gap makes it a bit easier on the ignition system.

you can buy pregapped plugs - BKR6E or BCPR6ES. Don't get the ones with -11 suffix, those are 1.1mm gap (and unfortunately more common). The ones without the suffix are 0.8mm.

you can put platinums/iridiums in if you get a good price but copper plugs are cheap and although you have to change them a bit more often it's good to have a look at them now and then (spark plugs tell a story about how your engine is running.. rich? lean? detonating? you'll see it on the plugs).

  • Like 1

Say what?!

if they have -11 at the end then all you have to do is gap them down to 0.8.

If they are the same heat range as what is required then it makes zero difference!

I have gotten spark plugs that were meant to be gapped at 0.8 but were all over the shop, 0.7 - 1.0 on a batch of six

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...