Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Someone give me enough cash to buy me an nsx on its own and then I may think about that kit, actually looks half decent, don't really like the wing on it, but it all looks good.

LOL.....same here mate..... never forgot the day i went on Honda.com.au, clicked NSX, clicked price and then saw :| :| $256,000!!!

There are 2nd hand ones but there around the price of a R34 GTR so like stuff that

Bit over the top in the 'riceness' scale... like the owner is a rich fool who latches onto all the 'right' names, eg. that Momo on the top rim of the steering wheel.

I prefer the JGTC look with the big F1 snorkel and quad pipes.

btw. for some reason, the only 'cheap' place for the NSX seems to be the US, everywhere else they seem to be vastly overpriced.

T.

Is anyone else wondering why it say R34 GTR and NUR on the rims?

maybe coz that's the spoon NSX JGTC kit? and the only rims that look good on a JGTC kitted car is well... JGTC rims lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...