Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

If anyone is selling an r34gtr non/vspec (nsw) with GENUINE kms either in bs blue or mp please let me know.

I am keen and ready to buy.

Ive been searching online but haven't had any luck.

If I can't get from here then I will import one thru import broker. Any recommendations on who to use?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

A Bayside Blue one just sold this week in Cecil Hills Sydney. Wongy just sold his. And Edifier just sold his too. All Bayside Blue. I guess you can approach JLM, TSI or Iron Chef as trustworthy guys to source one for you in Japan. That way, in Tokyo or Osaka they have a guy on the ground to inspect for rust as well as check on genuineness .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/#findComment-7574093
Share on other sites

I got in contact with iron chef and apparently they have access to an r34 Gtr in mnp III non vspec and selling for $48k complied and landed.

The car has down 127k which appears to be legit. The plates on the car says fc auto source so I checked out their website and saw photos of the car which looks to be in excellent condition. Here is the link:

http://www.fcautosource.com/ListingDetail.aspx?fcauto_id=22610&makemodel=2000_NISSAN_SKYLINE_GT-R

anyone heard of fc auto source?

How much would you pay for an mnp III non vspec Gtr if there was one here with legit ks. So far I haven't had any luck in finding one from here with legit ks. I might as well import this one from ironchef?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/#findComment-7576276
Share on other sites

Only if you have all the paperwork...

* Japanese dereg

* Auction sheet

* Logs (but this is often missing)

* Aussie receipts for purchases

* Tuner Report or access to discuss with the tuner

If not then a paid report from JOC aka Japanese Odo Check

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/#findComment-7576836
Share on other sites

Thanks Terry.

I've been speaking with ic and they put the mnp3 on hold for me. It hasn't gone through auction and don't think it will now.

Going to start the paper work with them. At least I'm getting one with legit kms and I can always add vspec later on.

I can't wait!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/#findComment-7576842
Share on other sites

that is fine. If they are proven to be genuine then I wouldnt even hesitate.

look at the bolsters and interior of that car now go onto carsales/gumptree and look at theirs. you might be surprised and find one that looks flogged with 50xxxkm on it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458479-wtb-r34-gtr/#findComment-7577332
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...