Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah it was. I havent actually taken the car back from the workshop since being rebuilt. Looks like a problem since the car has been first started as we havent really put any kms on it

Maybe it's time to tear it down if you are 10000% sure you got all the air out

How did you say you bled it?

Yep that's the plan it looks like

Tried a few different methods.

- let it idle and keep the revs around 3 to draw in water into the motor.

- Kept the heater on all the time

- after a few mins, switch it off and let it cool down

- Opened the bleeder valve with the car off and with the car on until steady streams of fluid came out. Not once were there bubbles or broken stream. Water seemed to be in the head at all times from the get go

- Tried jacking the front up as high as we could so the radiator was higher than the motor and repeated the processes.

- tried having a bottle cut open with fluid in it, sitting in the radiator as we were idling and revving to see if it would suck more in. kept sucking in a lot and when it finally didnt want anymore, it stopped.

- Tried a method with the radiator cap on and the car on and letting air out of the bleeder valve, which none came out.

- Drove the car down the street, around a few corners and up a few hills to just see if we could push any air pockets out

- Used a vacuum machine to suck any air out, nothing really did

- had the car running for a few mins, stopped it, let it cool, tried letting air out, and repeated that process many times over a few days incase things needed to settle.

Nothing we did made a dent in the issue.

Yep it was, it would get worse and better as the temp rapidly cooled and threw out the hot water. As the motor got a burst of cooler water, the hot water coming out would cause disruption in the water in the bottle and move it around a bit

To be honest didnt check the overflow so i dont know

Did you have the cap open, with a funnel or bottle cut open pushed into filler neck, car running and undo bleed nipples? While adding coolant.

Exactly what we did. Def sucked in some fluid in. But just a steady stream coming out of the bleeder

Ok this might sound really, really stupid but its why i asked if its been freshly rebuilt.

Pull your thermostat back out, get a mirror and torch and under the thermostat they should have replaced (if they pulled out all your welsh plugs) a small welsh plug inside the block, its sits in the block under the thermostat, from memory its around 20mm big (guessing).

There is a very real possibility that they may have knocked them all out to clean the block and forgotten there was one in there, its easy to miss for someone who does not know RB's or got the apprentice to knock them all in.

Yeah i know its a pain in the butt, but you never know......

Your looking to see if this plug was put back in, its at the top center of the crappy pic i took, way down under the thermostat, behind in a second casting.

DDMYVt.jpg

He is sure he put them in but was questioning to ensure that he did. Could be another reason he wants to pull the motor apart

But the above helps. It is something new to investigate at least! Thanks!

Just remember there are 2 open holes and a third one that the plug goes into.

One big one that the thermostat outside sits in with the casing over it held down by the 3 thermostat cover bolts.

One that the thermostat end rear/base sits over which is left open and is slightly bigger (by only a few mm) than the welsh plug under it.

Then the third hole which is the deepest and smallest, that one gets the welsh plug.....

Edited by GTRPSI

We just had 2 Koyo radiators fail from new in a 34 ,didnt have as severe issues as you ,but still did all the changes and checks you did as we didnt think it was a radiator issue .Both seemed to be partially blocked and both split and leaked with in 2 hours of driving ,put a new Blitz in and happy days ?

Did you have similar issues with temps rising and falling or was it just a constant rise and not coming back down?

it's interesting. Few other standard gtrs we were comparing with over the last week. The standard ones you could start up, drive out of the driveway and see it gained 10 degrees and heat would just slowly rise every min the car was on. Mine, well it just stayed cold for so much longer, temps wont budge, then all of a sudden a lots of heat!

Pulled the motor out of the car on Saturday. Going to pull the head off it hopefully today and get a good look at what is going on. Hopefully it's something little that has been missed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...