Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

check this out:

http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/index.html

a) similar things to a unichip

c) dunno

d) it kills an SAFC is properly tuned but this depends on C....

e) $420? (nengun price) -this price is slightly cheap but you may need to get the extra stuff. My friend bought one... shipped, with software, all additional sensors he paid $1000. This was from perfectrun.

In the end he sold it and bought a Power FC if thats anything to go by :)

Well the AFC only does one thing... control air/fuel. You can do all sorts of stuff with the e-manage like what the Apexi ITC does... or control larger injectors or change to map sensors.... more similar to a PowerFC...

but in the end with all the modules added up its more worthwhile, more proven and theres a lot more tuners for the Power FC.

I also considered this option too but its out the window now...

Originally posted by adam 32

can anyone give me any further details on this?

a)what does it control?

b)what application is it suited to?

c)fitting/tuning ease/cost?

d)how does it compare to other piggy-backs ie S-AFC

e)would you buy one if someone gave you $420? (nengun price)

cheers guys!

adam

a) if you have the E-01 and ignition harness -- EVERYTHING! Fuel maps ; ignition maps ; boost ( across specific rpm ) ; it has a funky glowing screen and takes Flash memory cards so you can store settings for different envionments.It can allow for the running of a MAP sensor instead of the AFM as well.

B) Trust have a 1500HP RB26 running it, there are many people in the US with it on WRXs and Supras etc.

c) The interface is very easy to understand, I think it looks easier than most and with the hand controller you can fine tune on the road.

d) It compares fairly well if you are just getting the basic e-manage box for $415AUS, given you can upgrade it. However in the full house version $910AUS (E-01) + $415 e-manage + $45 ignition harness, it stands up there with PowerFC , it is certainly better value for money.

e) yes I'd buy one if someone gave me $420.

BTW the unichip isn't in the same league as the e-amange or PFC.

Originally posted by INASNT

s-afc aint nothing special, the f con should have way more functions and points of adjustment than the s-afc

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

Originally posted by Gradenko

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

huh?

modifying the the air flow input on the s-afc does nothing to alter any timing!

u need the s-itc for ignition adjustment

Yes, it does affect timing. S-ITC allows for custom timing changes, but thats not to say that the S-AFC doesn't allow for any timing changes.

The factory computer uses the AFM as its main sensor to determine engine load. Measuring the amount of air ingested allows it to switch to an appopiate fuel ignition map. That is, a map that defines fuel and ignition timing. From factory, R33s are programmed to dump a whole load of fuel and knock back timing any time it breathes more air than in stock tune. Its a safeguard against detonation but removes all the fun making power.

Example: lighlty modified 'lines are always running rich and have a flat spot over 5000rpm. Fooling the computer into thinking the engine isn't breathing as much at a certain rpm (using a s-afc to modify afm voltage), relaxes safeguards and allows the computer to switch to a mapping with aggressive timing and less fuel.

Perhaps you should read up on senors in an EFI system and how they contribute engine tuning before you enter ECU related discussions. Sorry, but I dislike misinfomation on forums.

the main point of the s-afc is to lean out the mixtures hence make more power, true the timing might change when reading different afm inputs but that much?, the factory ignition maps r shit house to say the least!

y then can u achive power upgrade with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, similiar to s-afc when u r just leaning the mixtures out when on boost? that doesnt affect any afm signal.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

Oh dear, your trying to push the point by using overwhelming ignorance and fallacy based logic. Charming.

I love the fuel pressure regulator argument. Note, I said driveability is gained from timing changes. Power is made from the right afr's but whats the point if timing is continuely retarded and its a slug to drive? Fuel alone isn't going to fix problems inherent in the factory ecu's program.

I'm going to assume your not trying to favourbly compare a pressure reg to a s-afc, because a blanket change in fuel delivery regardless of revs is hardly the most sensible way to go about it. Plus, its the same price as a 2nd hand 1st gen s-afc, which is orders of magnitude more tuneable.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

The S-AFC has no direct control over fuel mixtures or delivery, the factory ecu makes its own decisions! Lets not turn this into EFI Systems 101. I'm done.

i dont want to start sumthing either!

i have been at many dyno sessions, including with my car tune and without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

so u do have control over your mixtures.

dont get on your high horse and thing u know it all!

:mad:

Originally posted by INASNT

i have been at many dyno sessions

That really is excellent. I'll add it to the running tally of how many dyno sessions SAU members go to. It counts +5 points towards their overall "I Know How To Tune" rating.

Originally posted by INASNT

without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious" award!

Originally posted by Gradenko

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious"  award!

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

i know it intercepts the signal to trick ecu so u can run better af's!

either way s-afc offer f*uck all tuneability compared to a standalone ecu!

if i had the $$ at the time i bought the s-afc i would have got an power fc.

Ladies, Ladies, Ladies...

I think what gradenkos getting at is the AFC changes the signals youre AFM puts out, making youre ECU think you are getting more or less air flow.

The Fuel maps the ECU uses are the same, its just fooled into thinking theres more/less air so it puts more/less fuel in. The ECU still controls mixture, youre just tricking it.

Most skylines run rich, leaning the mixture out makes youre ECU think you have less airflow, and you arent working the engine as hard, so as a by product, the timing stays advanced, rather than being reduced at higher revs (it gets rid of the infamous 5000rpm flat spot).

Its people like me who have to make the ecu think theres more air, so i get more fuel who are disadvantaged by this, cause my timing is not as advanced as it could be.

I am the one who needs the ITC!

I know Gradenko has done a lot of research into mods, thats why he ran a 13.8 with the small amount of mods he has done, he knows what things do, and how to apply them. I reckon hes spent more on speeding fines than mods.

Originally posted by INASNT

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

Sorry, wasn't my intention to put that image across. Like most of us here, this is just a hobby. Only two things upset me on forums, one is rice boys tarnishing the Skyline name, and the other is misinfomation (sometimes also seen in the form of opinion passed as fact).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...