Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust/GReddy E-Manage


Recommended Posts

can anyone give me any further details on this?

a)what does it control?

b)what application is it suited to?

c)fitting/tuning ease/cost?

d)how does it compare to other piggy-backs ie S-AFC

e)would you buy one if someone gave you $420? (nengun price)

cheers guys!

adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

check this out:

http://www.mkiv.com/tmp/emanage/index.html

a) similar things to a unichip

c) dunno

d) it kills an SAFC is properly tuned but this depends on C....

e) $420? (nengun price) -this price is slightly cheap but you may need to get the extra stuff. My friend bought one... shipped, with software, all additional sensors he paid $1000. This was from perfectrun.

In the end he sold it and bought a Power FC if thats anything to go by :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the AFC only does one thing... control air/fuel. You can do all sorts of stuff with the e-manage like what the Apexi ITC does... or control larger injectors or change to map sensors.... more similar to a PowerFC...

but in the end with all the modules added up its more worthwhile, more proven and theres a lot more tuners for the Power FC.

I also considered this option too but its out the window now...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why is it now out the window?

yeh i considered it too. my main constraint is budget unfortunately

my options are remap ($500) or SAFC ($600 approx once fitted and tuned)

ive currently got a remapped ECU, and a HKS F-Con at the moment..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

but in the end with all the modules added up its more worthwhile, more proven and theres a lot more tuners for the Power FC

this is why its out the window. In an R32 can't you remap everything so you woulnd't need the Fcon or SAFC?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

nah theres a guy here who does

which means i could do away with the f-con

otherwise i would replace the f-con with a SAFC

s-afc aint nothing special, the f con should have way more functions and points of adjustment than the s-afc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

can anyone give me any further details on this?

a)what does it control?

b)what application is it suited to?

c)fitting/tuning ease/cost?

d)how does it compare to other piggy-backs ie S-AFC

e)would you buy one if someone gave you $420? (nengun price)

cheers guys!

adam

a) if you have the E-01 and ignition harness -- EVERYTHING! Fuel maps ; ignition maps ; boost ( across specific rpm ) ; it has a funky glowing screen and takes Flash memory cards so you can store settings for different envionments.It can allow for the running of a MAP sensor instead of the AFM as well.

B) Trust have a 1500HP RB26 running it, there are many people in the US with it on WRXs and Supras etc.

c) The interface is very easy to understand, I think it looks easier than most and with the hand controller you can fine tune on the road.

d) It compares fairly well if you are just getting the basic e-manage box for $415AUS, given you can upgrade it. However in the full house version $910AUS (E-01) + $415 e-manage + $45 ignition harness, it stands up there with PowerFC , it is certainly better value for money.

e) yes I'd buy one if someone gave me $420.

BTW the unichip isn't in the same league as the e-amange or PFC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by INASNT

s-afc aint nothing special, the f con should have way more functions and points of adjustment than the s-afc

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Gradenko

The f-con adam found is the pfc f-con, not the f-conV. The pfc is strictly fuel only, using a harness to talk directly to injecors and has no other functions. The ROM is programmed from factory and can only be replaced by ROM options from HKS. I consider is to be far inferior to the s-afc because it lacks the ability to modify ignition timing, something the s-afc can do as a by product of modifing air flow meter values. Ignition timing is where the majority of drivablity gains are made on a RB25DET.

huh?

modifying the the air flow input on the s-afc does nothing to alter any timing!

u need the s-itc for ignition adjustment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it does affect timing. S-ITC allows for custom timing changes, but thats not to say that the S-AFC doesn't allow for any timing changes.

The factory computer uses the AFM as its main sensor to determine engine load. Measuring the amount of air ingested allows it to switch to an appopiate fuel ignition map. That is, a map that defines fuel and ignition timing. From factory, R33s are programmed to dump a whole load of fuel and knock back timing any time it breathes more air than in stock tune. Its a safeguard against detonation but removes all the fun making power.

Example: lighlty modified 'lines are always running rich and have a flat spot over 5000rpm. Fooling the computer into thinking the engine isn't breathing as much at a certain rpm (using a s-afc to modify afm voltage), relaxes safeguards and allows the computer to switch to a mapping with aggressive timing and less fuel.

Perhaps you should read up on senors in an EFI system and how they contribute engine tuning before you enter ECU related discussions. Sorry, but I dislike misinfomation on forums.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the main point of the s-afc is to lean out the mixtures hence make more power, true the timing might change when reading different afm inputs but that much?, the factory ignition maps r shit house to say the least!

y then can u achive power upgrade with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, similiar to s-afc when u r just leaning the mixtures out when on boost? that doesnt affect any afm signal.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh dear, your trying to push the point by using overwhelming ignorance and fallacy based logic. Charming.

I love the fuel pressure regulator argument. Note, I said driveability is gained from timing changes. Power is made from the right afr's but whats the point if timing is continuely retarded and its a slug to drive? Fuel alone isn't going to fix problems inherent in the factory ecu's program.

I'm going to assume your not trying to favourbly compare a pressure reg to a s-afc, because a blanket change in fuel delivery regardless of revs is hardly the most sensible way to go about it. Plus, its the same price as a 2nd hand 1st gen s-afc, which is orders of magnitude more tuneable.

s-afc mainly gets power increase from running smoother and leaner fuel mixtures

The S-AFC has no direct control over fuel mixtures or delivery, the factory ecu makes its own decisions! Lets not turn this into EFI Systems 101. I'm done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i dont want to start sumthing either!

i have been at many dyno sessions, including with my car tune and without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

so u do have control over your mixtures.

dont get on your high horse and thing u know it all!

:mad:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by INASNT

i have been at many dyno sessions

That really is excellent. I'll add it to the running tally of how many dyno sessions SAU members go to. It counts +5 points towards their overall "I Know How To Tune" rating.

Originally posted by INASNT

without the s-afc my a/f ratios were all over the place, then with the s-afc tuned it kept a roughly straight 12.1 a/f ratio, by adjusting -/+ %!

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious" award!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Gradenko

Well! That proves it then. S-AFCs really do change air-fuel ratios. Please, someone bring this man the "Stating the Obvious"  award!

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

i know it intercepts the signal to trick ecu so u can run better af's!

either way s-afc offer f*uck all tuneability compared to a standalone ecu!

if i had the $$ at the time i bought the s-afc i would have got an power fc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ladies, Ladies, Ladies...

I think what gradenkos getting at is the AFC changes the signals youre AFM puts out, making youre ECU think you are getting more or less air flow.

The Fuel maps the ECU uses are the same, its just fooled into thinking theres more/less air so it puts more/less fuel in. The ECU still controls mixture, youre just tricking it.

Most skylines run rich, leaning the mixture out makes youre ECU think you have less airflow, and you arent working the engine as hard, so as a by product, the timing stays advanced, rather than being reduced at higher revs (it gets rid of the infamous 5000rpm flat spot).

Its people like me who have to make the ecu think theres more air, so i get more fuel who are disadvantaged by this, cause my timing is not as advanced as it could be.

I am the one who needs the ITC!

I know Gradenko has done a lot of research into mods, thats why he ran a 13.8 with the small amount of mods he has done, he knows what things do, and how to apply them. I reckon hes spent more on speeding fines than mods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by INASNT

bowdown.gif master of tuning and efi systems!!

Sorry, wasn't my intention to put that image across. Like most of us here, this is just a hobby. Only two things upset me on forums, one is rice boys tarnishing the Skyline name, and the other is misinfomation (sometimes also seen in the form of opinion passed as fact).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had a similar situation with my R32 GTS4. I replaced that solenoid, but it hasn't solved the problem. So its possible the pump is failing. It seems you need to drop the diff in order to do anything that might fix this. So its important to know exactly what the problem is. Or just replace / repair everything while the diff is out.
    • Yep, I was supprised. Its all about flow rather then housing size.  Doing G35-900 Vs ATR45SS-1 Next. 62mm V 61mm. 
    • Of course sometimes you cannot go with the cheaper alternative but I try to weigh it up for the application - am I competing or am I going to the track ten times p/yr. As long as there’s enough information out there to back the cheaper alternative as a good option I’ll go for that.   I’m a bit of a bastard though as it’s my job to reduce costs, particularly on non income generating assets. EUR 500 saved for the diff + EUR 1,000 saved on BC racing over Bilstein and then say EUR 300 versus EUR 600 on an off brand windscreen versus OEM (for example) soon accumulates. I mean, I’m probably gonna put the car in the ditch anyway. Absolutely do not take this as a justification for always buying cheap shitty parts, just a rationale for doing your research and considering what’s necessary for your application.    
    • All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.
    • Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?
×
×
  • Create New...