Jump to content
SAU Community

SAU NSW - Tech Night - Fri 8th July - Just Engine Management


sammi_d
 Share

Recommended Posts

"Yes! We're bringing Tech Nights back... The other clubs don't know how to act!"- Justin Timberlake

Yes, we're bringing tech nights back online, and we're starting with one of the best in the business - Just Engine Management!

JEM will be graciously hosting us on the Friday evening, to talk us through what's involved with Dyno Tuning our beloved cars, as well as what you need to do to get your car ready for tuning!

Places will be limited, and members will have preference for places, however, this is open to all!

Before we get into the event details, here are some rules:

 

1) MEMBERS ENTRY IS FREE! Are you a member of SAU NSW and want to join? Just send any of the exec's a message letting us know, and we'll add you to the list!

2) Not a SAU NSW member yet? Head over to our store and buy yourself a ticket! Non-Member entry is welcome, but tickets are priced at $20pp.

3) Bringing a +1 that's not an SAU NSW member? Then your +1 will need a ticket.

4) Limited parking is available within the premises. Should parking within the shop fill, please park on the street in Noonan Rd.

 

So, time for the details:

Date: Friday 8th July

Location: Just Engine Management - 2/2 Noonan Road, Ingleburn

Time: 7.00pm SHARP

Map: https://www.google.com/maps/place/Just+Engine+Management/@-33.9881585,150.8623804,18.01z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x511ee0db6fec80f2!8m2!3d-33.9882714!4d150.861932

NON-MEMBER TICKETShttps://www.saunsw.com.au/store/p/sau-nsw-jem-tech-night-non-member-entry

Resfreshments and nibbles will be provided on the night for all who attend! If you have any special dietary requirements, please let us know so we can try to accommodate as best as we can!

 

This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our track days.

This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a Motorsport Australia permit.

One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general.

When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to:

• Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly.
• Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should.
• Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU:NSW and thus, treat others accordingly.
• Any misbehaviour will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.

Thanks guys and hope to see you there!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...