Jump to content
SAU Community

Kingpin Bearing Part Numbers And Availability..

sponaugle
 Share

Recommended Posts

sponaugle Rookie

sponaugle

Posted
Posted

I have a 1990 R32 GTR, and I need to replace the kingpin bearings. In digging around in many of the threads on this topic, there seems to be a general unavailability of the lower bearing.

Front what I have collected so far from these threads:

Upper Bearing Nissan Part Number: 40030-33P07

Lower Bearing Nissan Part Number: 40030-60U00

Upper Seal Nissan Part Number: 40579-33P01

Lower Seal Nissan Part Number: 40290-33P00

Proposed Upper Bearing Mfg Part Number: NSK-6204V or NTN-2N0804

Proposed Lower Bearing Mfg Part Number: NTN-6907LB

I pulled the arms off my car and took at look at the bearings, and I found the following:

Upper Bearing Mfg Part Number: NTN-6204LB (Not NSK-6204V)

Lower Bearing Mfg Part Number: NSK, BAT31-1B , S32 (Those were the three marks on the casing).

The Upper Bearing, if it is NSK-6204V or NTN-6204LB, is something easy to find. There are multiple online bearing places here in the US that have them. I can also order the part number listed above from Nissan ( 40030-33P07 ). It is listed as a part for the TT 300ZX.

The Lower Bearing I have is an NSK one, with what looks like a part number of NSK-BAT31-1B. I can't find a reference for that part number anywhere. If I look up the NTN-6907LB I do find some chinese sites that reference it, but nothing that looks ligit.

Here is what I am curious about: If I search for the Nissan part number listed above ( 40030-60U00 ), it is easy to find as it is a Nissan 300ZX part. I can order that from a dealer here.

In a few threads there is mention that the 'nissan part number' is not correct, although I have not seen a reference to exactly which part number everyone is talking about. I could just go ahead and order the nissan part and see what I get.

Does anyone have a definitive answer about the correctness of the two nissan part numbers? ( 40030-33P07 and 40030-60U00 )? Any other sources for the lower bearing?

Cheers,

Jeff Sponaugle

  • Like 1
sponaugle Rookie

sponaugle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

One other note: I measured both the kingpin and well as that lower bearing from my car and they confirm some other measurements I read online. It is a 31mm inside and 58mm outside. That is a pretty atypical size, especially the 31mm part. That may explain the BAT31-1B part number I see on it.

The 6907 number referenced above translates to a 35mm inside and 55mm outside bearing, regardless of NTN of NSK.

The kingpin part itself, at least for the 300ZX is listed as 40022-60U05. According to several online sources that is the correct R32 part number. If the 300zx and R32 part numbers are indeed the same then the lower bearing used on the 300ZX must also be 31mm inside diameter.. Of course that doesn't mean the outside diameter is the same!

One last option I could consider: There are some readily available 58mm outside and 28mm inside bearings of the same thickness and construction. It would be very easy to take the two king pins and have them turned down from 31mm to 28mm and use those bearings. Thoughts?

Jeff

Edited by sponaugle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
×
×
  • Create New...