Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Prefer to swap for a R32 or another lighter turbo car, don't care if its registered, I am after a dedicated track car. Will also take shells with cash adjustment.

All mods aside from coilovers and clutch are less than 2000 km old was setting this up to be my track car but decided I really want a R32!!

Rego till August 16

Mods:
- Exedy HD clutch
- Whiteline Sway bars
- Tein Adjustable coils
- Cusco adjustable camber front (-2 degrees)
- Ikeya Formula rear (-0.75 degrees)
- 3" cat back exhaust system (have a 3" dump to go with it)
- Greddy EBC (9psi low - 12psi high)
- New FMIC and piping (black, not pictured)
- Oil cooler and relocation
- Blitz Radiator with new hoses and temp sensor/gauge
- Apexi Cold air intake
- Cusco front and rear Strut braces.
- Lockout bar
- QFM A1RM pads all round, 200km old (RBF 600)
- Wheels are 350z rattled black
- Tyres: Nitto Invo 245's all round.
- Front guards rolled to fit the 245's
-Genuine GTR boot and wing comes with the GTR wing blade as well as the Bee*R GTR wing.
-Quick release HUB and suede wheel
- Gauges: Oil pressure, Oil temp, Water Temp, Boost.
- Nismo cluster

Will come with spare boot (Original) spare M spec front bar and whatever else is lying around the garage from it.

After $8500

Ill pop some pics up tonight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462273-fs-r33-s1-sydney/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...