Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 with RB25DET is having Power steering problems.

The Hicas Light is intermittently flashing at times and the power steering is grinding each time the light flashes. Im really worried about this and im hoping its nothing major. It seems like a broken PS pump, but sometimes, like when the car is sitting idling, the Power steering is FINE, no nosise, no grind no light.

I had my stereo installed today - could an Earth wire be affecting this. Is it anything to do with my battery.

Ive put more Power steering fluid in it and its not doing anything. The belts seem fine as well.

Im so scared ppls. Ive just spent my last penny getting this car and this happens I really hope its nothing major.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46251-power-steering-playing-up-plz-help/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for replies....reason I didn't get back was because I have been working on the prob. Rang local expert on P'steer and he said first up pump buggered (typical of "experts" replace first...then have a think about it). Explained tried 2 pumps then he suggested:

1. jack up car

2. With engine off - turn steering back and forth SLOWLY 5 times

3. Try again.

Expert said P'steer system is SELF PRIMING and that one of the HP hoses is a return line. Withthis in mind I also cracked both hoses and let foamy fluid out (with engine off).

Tried again and it WORKED!!!!! No noise.

On HICAS - the 2 lines going to the rear rack don't appear to be re-circulating (no return line?) AND there are 2 bleed nipples on the rear rack. IF the HICAS light comes on, there may be air in the rear lines. A good bleed may fix all those flashing HICAS lights.

Thanks for replies....it was my first thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...