Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got a quick question, might seem abit dumb but i have searched the forum and have not find anything too much related to my question.

As the title says: Does an N/A engine with a turbo installed definitely need a VASS to pass RWC? As under my awareness there is no mention of that in the "Engine" section of the RWC requirement from Vicroads, while in the "Modified Vehicles" section it seems that as long as it does not affect the vehicle's handling, structural integrity of compliance with the standard for registration, then it wont need a VASS? Is there sort of like a grey area in this context of whether a VASS is needed?

Also because the engine is an N/A, does it mean that i also HAVE to past the ADR emission test too?
If there is anyone who know any RWC place that can help me pass an N/A+T without VASS feel free to message me, as that would save me the trouble of un-turboing my car and putting the stock manifold etc on which i might not have to do now.
Thanks in Advance!

hmm do u mean that if I put the "Rb25 NEO" cover on top they might not realize that the car is turbo'd?

Hopefully they don't realise or care that its meant to be a non turbo. Can't hurt to try[emoji6]

I've had 2 canaries while my car has been turbo'ed for too low and a few other things while on my P's, never for actually having a turbo (this was back in the power to weight days, and each time I convinced the officer I was under the power to weight) so when I had to get a RWC then go to Vicroads they all just checked the things that were marked on the canary. No one ever questioned should the car have a turbo, were you picked up for having a turbo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...