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1973 240z

Brisbane

45k, but would be interested in an R32/R34GTR Deal

I bought it 3 years ago now, with the full intention of turning it into a JDM princess and enjoying it.  Unfortunately the best laid plans don't always work out.  As the car needed more body attention that i originally thought, rather than restore the car and not enjoy it at all for 5 years, i chose to rebuild it mechanically and leave the restoration (read: respray) until a later date.  The car has been finished for about a year now, and i just cant seem to get the energy going to strip it down, have the body redone, and put it all back together.  It would be lucky to have driven 1,000ks in the 3 years ive owned it. 

I should clarity right now, this car is 100% driveable.  It starts, runs, idles, brakes and steers excellent.  The ONLY thing it needs is the rust removed, paint redone and new parts installed (to replace the old ones you wouldn't want to re-fit after restoring it).  If someone didn't want to repaint this for another 5 years, there is nothing stopping you from enjoying the car and driving it anytime.

With that in mind, i have decided to do an EOI on it to see if someone else wants to run the final 100m of this race and have one of the best 240Zs in the country.  Apologies if there are rules against EOI, but either way i would struggle to put a price on this as the current market (Car Sales and Gumtree) is extremely inconsistent.  Anyway, lets start with the good bits.  As you can tell by the list below, this car had a very specific goal in mind, which was to completely replace everything which was old and crap, and replace it with as much JDM goodness as i could find.  A lot of the work on the car (MCA coilovers, S2000 seat mounts, stack gauge surround etc) has been created by myself or D3C0Y and cant be bought off the shelf.  In short, i have spent a lot of time researching and finding the best bits for this car, which are what is going to make it very well sorted.


The Car

1973 240Z

Engine and driveline

 

  •   L28 F54 Block (engineer approved)
  •     P90 head
  •     280 duration .495 lift Wade Cam
  •     MSA performance valve springs
  •     Triple 45mm SK Racing Carbs with velocity stacks on TWM manifold (restored by Lou Mondello and jetted/tuned by CnJ Motorsport)
  •     180HP ATW
  •     Kameari heat-shield
  •     Alloy catch can
  •     Adjustable alternator bracket
  •     Redline fuel pressure regulator
  •     Light weight Flywheel (4.6kgs)
  •     Excedy HD Clutch
  •     Fujitsubo headers (HPC coated)
  •     Fujitsubo Legalis R stainless exhaust and muffler
  •     280ZX Electronic Distributor
  •     3 row 56mm aluminum radiator with twin 12 inch fans
  •     280z 5 speed manual
  •     New clutch slave cylinder
  •     New upper and lower thermostat housing
  •     New lower water inlet
  •     Chrome bolt kits and replaced bolts in many places
  •     4.1 R200 LSD

Suspension, Brakes and wheels

  

  • Front and rear (cusco) strut bar
  •     Front and rear white-line sway bars
  •     Front and rear adjustable end-links
  •     MCA blue series coil-overs (front inverted mono tube with 5.25kg springs and rear non-inverted with 4.5kg springs) (engineer approved)
  •     TTT Adjustable front and rear lower control arms
  •     TTT adjustable castor rods
  •     260Z front hubs
  •     280zx 15/16 master cylinder
  •     300ZX 4 pot aluminum calipers with braided brake lines (engineer approved)
  •     Front 300mm vented and slotted RDA disks
  •     New handbrake cable
  •     R31 rear calipers (solid disk) with braided brake lines (engineer approved)
  •     Rear solid RDA disks
  •     New tie rods
  •     New wheel bearings
  •     Watanabe RS 16*9 and 16*9.5
  •     Toyo Proxy T1R 225/50/16 and 245/45/16

Interior

  

  • Honda S2000 seats mounted to stock rails (engineer approved)
  •     More new bits, screws, fasteners and clips than i care to count
  •     Electronic ignition (Original tacho modded to read electronic signal)
  •     Nardi Steering wheel
  •     Replica leather handbrake and gear boot
  •     Original 5 speed shift knob (plastic slightly cracked but wood is good)
  •     Restored center console with Fairlady Z badge
  •     Stack Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Voltage gauges
  •     All lights work
  •     Billet map light surround
  •     New hatch and footwell carpet
  •     New passenger side grab handle

Exterior

  

  • Kameari Front spoiler
  •     Replica 432 rear spoiler
  •     Replica ZG flairs (body cut and welded)
  •     Reconditioned front and rear bumpers
  •     Genuine 510 Chrome fender mirrors
  •     Navara glass headlights

Spares (to be installed after painting)

   

  • Brand new diamond pattern interior trim (front and rear)
  •     Brand new roof-lining and A pillar trim kit
  •     Brand new full rubber/seal kit
  •     Brand new pedal rubbers
  •     Drivers side outer window rubber
  •     Fairlady Z dash emblem
  •     Genuine Fairlady Z badges

So what needs to be done?

  • It needs to be repainted.  It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared.  So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections.
  • It needs to be repainted.  It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared.  So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections.
  • Rust to be removed.  The only rust i have seen (and i have been working on the car for a few years now) is in the bottom of the doors and one spot under the rear window rubbers.  That doesn't mean there isn't more, but its not showing anywhere else.

  • It also doesn't have a roofliner, because the original one was replaced by some horrible white fluffy thing which fell off as i was driving from Brisbane to the Sunshine coast.  Rather than fit the new one, i was waiting until it was resprayed so i wouldn't have to pull it out twice.

  • There is a small leak in the tappet cover gasket from the head not being perfectly flush (bottom of head was planned so the headgasket is a perfect seal), one small leak from the front cover gasket and one small leak from the front of the diff.

  • The Dash is cracked, and currently has a cover on it.

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  • Like 1
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been watching carsales/z240 forum/facebook for the for sale/progress of the car.

"It needs to be repainted.  It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared.  So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections.

Rust to be removed.  The only rust i have seen (and i have been working on the car for a few years now) is in the bottom of the doors and one spot under the rear window rubbers.  That doesn't mean there isn't more, but its not showing anywhere else.

The Dash is cracked, and currently has a cover on it "

can you take pics of these areas?

just to better judge if repairable etc

thanks

oh also if you don't mind take pic of where you had the guards chopped under the fender flairs please. would like to see how clean they were done :)

 

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Hey Ken,

Not a problem, i have rust pics on hand, but not the guards.  I will take those later.  The only one i cant do is the dash, as the dash-cap is glued on.  I haven't peeled it off, but reskinning is $800-$900 from the Dashboard doctor in Melb.  That's who i would send it to anyway.

 

  1. Drivers side (in front of rear wheel)
  2. Hatch
  3. Passenger side (in front of rear wheel)

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Deus_Ex
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