Jump to content
SAU Community

350Z LSD in R34

DieselTime
 Share

Recommended Posts

DieselTime Contributor

DieselTime

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I'm thinking that'll be where I end up, just swap out the centres. Only problem I'm really running into is sourcing one for my specific model. RHDJapan lists the "RB25DE non-viscous model" and the "RB25DET MT" models as using the same centre. Which I would take to mean that, if they use the same model, then they have the same axle hubs, which we've been over pretty thoroughly as not being the case. Could just be more to do with the ratios instead of the actually parts but it doesn't clearly state either way, so will have to shoot them an email to confirm.

Nengun also has the KAAZ model which differentiates the models a bit more clearly (25GT and R33 GTS use the same centres, like we were saying earlier) and is about the same price as the Nismo (RHD actually works the Nismo out a bit cheaper with shipping). Probs be more inclined to the Nismo side of things with that being the case but if anybody's had experience with either or better yet both I'd love to hear about it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Keep in mind the following permutations of the possible differences between stub axles across the various diffs.

The centre can be open, viscous LSD or helical LSD.

The stub axles can be 3x2 or 5 bolt (we'll ignore the GTR 6 bolters).

The splines may be different (diameter & count)

The lengths of the stub axles (and therefore how far in the splines go) can be different.

You can have any of a whole bunch of those factors in play at the same time.

Example.  Silvia VLSD.  That's going to have 3x2 stubs, but the stubs will probably be the same diameter, same spline count and same lengths as the 5 bolt stubs on an R32-4 VLSD.  That's because it's the same centre.  It is important to note that the VLSD is an odd looking thing inside, and this means that you end up with two stubs with different lengths that actually won't work in other centres.

Example 2. S15 helical vs R34 helical.  I'm pretty sure these are the same centre.  So the 5 bolt R34 stubs should go into the S15 centre and vice versa.  But you can't use these stubs in a normal mechanical LSD (say a KAAZ).  At least I don't think you can.

When you buy a Nismo diff, I'm pretty sure that you get stub axles to suit with it.  This because of the odd length stub axle situation from the VLSDs.  I think that the open centres use different length stubs to the viscous diffs, which is why they list different Nismo GT centres for open NA diffs and for turbo diffs.

Be aware that there is a hell of a lot of noise in what I said above, because whilst most of it is right, there could be some things I said that are not right, simply because I can't keep it all straight in my head, and have never known it all properly anyway!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...