Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI SAUers,

I have an R33 with a GT3076R on stock manifold with external gate welded to the exhaust housing.

It was worked well but I am now upgrading the manifold to a high mount 6boost because my studs/nuts keep coming loose and I've had enough.

I need to buy a new rear housing when I upgrade manifolds because the way the gate is welded to the current one means it wont fit.

I have found a fair priced used 6boost manifold but it is a T4 twin entry (not twin scroll as it has only one gate provision?)

QUESTION:

Can I buy a T4 flanged rear housing that will fit the GT3076 in .82?

Will it give me any benefit over the T3 flanged housing?

Should I just buy a brand new T3 flanged 6Boost and get a T3 flanged housing.

 

Thanks all

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472194-t4-exhaust-housing-for-gt3076r-56t/
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, Yeedogga said:

 

Should I just buy a brand new T3 flanged 6Boost and get a T3 flanged housing.

 

If you're completely satisfied with the GT3076 (and there's still a lot to like about that turbo on a RB25), then stay T3 high mount and be happy. 

Bear in mind there's a fair bit of fab work to get the piping right and even the gate in correct position.  So it'd be good if future turbo changes allow for direct bolt in spec changes (eg move to a GT35 or something within reason).

I'd suggest you do the homework on alternative brands in the same price or performance range too.  You "might" move away from the Honeywell gear given what the cost of a bare housing is and the funds you could recoup on sale of existing gear.

Besides the higher priced options (EFR, PTE), you'd be mad not to look at BW S256/257, Masterpower/Borghetti MPR54/59, and the Kinugawa range.  There are T4 options amongst those, and the dimensions of a T4 hole may allow for a nicer transition in the collector area of a high mount. 

I don't think T3 single vs T4 single will make much difference to overall performance given your current turbo is going to top out around the 300rwkW mark.  A proper split pulse setup probably will make a difference, at a cost.  

Bottom line for me, you've got to price up the alternative setups and gauge what's most attractive and within your budget.  They are all going to perform differently but no dogs there.  

Garrett preferred? - T3 single scroll, single gate.  Easy move to a GTX3071 or GTX3576 in future.  Don't look back.

Bigger budget? - T4 split pulse, EFR 7670 IW. 

Bigger again? - T4 split pulse, EFR or PTE twin external gates.

Smaller budget? - T4 split pulse, BW S257SXE twin external gates

Smaller again and open mind? - T4 single scroll, BW S257SXE or Masterpower MPR545, single gate.  

Smallest budget, still open minded? T3 single scroll, Kinugawa TDO6-25G, single gate.

  • Like 2

Thanks heaps for taking the time to reply Dale- i very much appreciate it.

I decided to keep the 3076 as it meets my needs for now.

I have ordered a brand new 6boost with a single entry T3/ ext gate and got a new T3 / V band rear housing to go with it.

I'm interested to see if it increases power/response but will be happy with just an increase in reliability and decrease in likelihood of turbo falling off the manifold!!

Cheers!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...