Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pair of Bride Brix II seats in leather/gradient trim. One was originally a cloth seat that was retrimmed (can tell by the product code E14AGS and hence the difference in stitching at the headrest) and was purchased from Import Monky. The other was a leather seat from factory (E14AGR) purchased second hand. Both in good condition with a little bolster wear on the retrimmed seat as pictured. Rails are also genuine Bride rails to suit an R34 GTT. Rails were purchases from Jap Import Spares in SA. Have certificates for the rails. We’re only in my car for 6 month but removed because I sold the car in October. Have been sitting in my room since.
 
Pickup from Penrith area. 
$1800 for the pair with rails. 
 

7F08A84A-5452-4335-B103-6D22970DB3D5.jpeg

5CFBEB9A-0E44-44CB-A666-ADF1AE956F1A.jpeg

406BB78B-3EA0-4551-8127-48D1239AB891.jpeg

CBD5C782-9B6E-48D7-9F77-3BFB87F0401D.jpeg

692D2091-5EA2-403C-84E8-75EB198C8FC7.jpeg

33C70AC9-B2C3-426B-90F6-75130DCA3121.jpeg

A0F5EA9E-CA32-44FB-8E15-DEF662550E18.jpeg

Edited by vinceyboy28
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473418-bride-brix-ii/
Share on other sites

Man these are rare theses days. I have a set of Brix II's that I wish matched.....ones a Brix II in leather with red stitch but with all black Bride gradation cloth insert and the other, a normal bride cloth Brix II...
If those rails fit my s13 I would buy in an instant!!!
Good luck with the sale man.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473418-bride-brix-ii/#findComment-7868917
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Cheers for the reply mate.

I'm guessing the re-trimmed one is still available? How much you looking for? Also , would you be happy to post to Adelaide?

I'll see if I can source another one in the meantime, really wanted that set! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473418-bride-brix-ii/#findComment-7901715
Share on other sites

No worries. Yes the re-trimmed one is the one I still have. I’ve attached some more recent pics for you. Was looking for $700. Happy to courier it if you cover the cost. 86394A9F-0767-4AE1-BB79-F7BC1237F9F7.thumb.jpeg.ae79c0915716111eb46a059f0f2cd88d.jpegC520FDB3-1F6B-4A48-A6D6-6D3A86CF9956.thumb.jpeg.80f12c946c1cf1d18cc15f197066ffcd.jpeg3974B313-604B-4B33-8BE2-DA7574C5EC67.thumb.jpeg.0f37180ff8fd9fdb23473f6aab33b4f4.jpeg498EBB99-BFA6-4894-820E-16FC7FF54976.thumb.jpeg.6f803f1909908a04e53b47d3bbd187c8.jpeg8BFD9DFA-FDB9-4726-A2D6-B16E48B122C8.thumb.jpeg.217e5b24b9a76fb1c08e7caafcd9787c.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473418-bride-brix-ii/#findComment-7901724
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...