Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone ,

 

im looking to purchase a r32 gtr but it seems to have a bent chassis rail , is it worth fixing with confidence it can handle power up to 450hp? Or will it be fragile and more likely to break or bend again ? 

 

Thankyou 

3634A4F3-31DA-4C08-AD3F-D422AA3DFE51.png

I was looking at an R32 non GT-R once that had crushed rails. I took a bunch of photos and walked into a workshop, they basically laughed me out. A proper repair will be costly - given that it's a GT-R it may be worth it, or may not be. It will never pass roady unless repaired correctly. I'm not liking all that rust around the lift point either.

If I saw that on a car I'd be wondering what happened, why it hasn't been repaired, and what else is wrong. Do a paint thickness check all around at a minimum to see if it's been partially resprayed and/or bogged up, and maybe check alignment if you can for an indication of whether the chassis is true or not.

35 minutes ago, V28VX37 said:

I was looking at an R32 non GT-R once that had crushed rails. I took a bunch of photos and walked into a workshop, they basically laughed me out. A proper repair will be costly - given that it's a GT-R it may be worth it, or may not be. It will never pass roady unless repaired correctly. I'm not liking all that rust around the lift point either.

If I saw that on a car I'd be wondering what happened, why it hasn't been repaired, and what else is wrong. Do a paint thickness check all around at a minimum to see if it's been partially resprayed and/or bogged up, and maybe check alignment if you can for an indication of whether the chassis is true or not.

Thanks a ton for this response , the car has had a respray and the owner has had the car with this problem since day dot he says , I have been quoted $1500 to repair it , how would I go about the allinment and getting an accurate reading ? 

  • Like 1

The rail's not bent.  It's just f**ked.  Classic moron jacking it up wrong and/or bashing it into speedbumps.  It is major league defectable.  It is very fixable, but at a cost of course.  On my R32 we made a tool that we could insert through the holes in the rail to push out the (much smaller) damage done over the years before I had to take it through Regency for approvals because we know they are (unts about that sort of thing.  If they saw that photo, they would hand you a defect notice to stick on your head!

Edited by GTSBoy
15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The rail's not bent.  It's just f**ked.  Classic moron jacking it up wrong and/or bashing it into speedbumps.  It is major league defectable.  It is very fixable, but at a cost of course.  On my R32 we made a tool that we could insert through the holes in the rail to push out the (much smaller) damage done over the years before I had to take it through Regency for approvals because we know they are (unts about that sort of thing.  If they saw that photo, they would hand you a defect notice to stick on your head!

Once fixed should I be worry that the chassis not being able to handle power mods ? Or is this just a stay away from the car and that’s that ?

You could fix that rail so it is 3x stronger than original.  I make no representation as to what state the rest of the car will be in if the rails look like that though.  That is a sure sign of "give no f**k".

  • Like 2

^ What he said.

Given that 32 R's are getting pretty old and increasingly rare, if it looks like you're getting too good a deal, you probably are.
Good examples are hard to find, you just gotta do the work and have the $$ ready.

At the current prices I would have a mile long checklist and inspect the car several times in good daylight plus have a workshop go over it in detail. The alternative is to buy the 20k 'immaculate' one and spend another 20k+ fixing it - an option for sure, but tedious.

^ What he said.
Given that 32 R's are getting pretty old and increasingly rare, if it looks like you're getting too good a deal, you probably are.
Good examples are hard to find, you just gotta do the work and have the $$ ready.
At the current prices I would have a mile long checklist and inspect the car several times in good daylight plus have a workshop go over it in detail. The alternative is to buy the 20k 'immaculate' one and spend another 20k+ fixing it - an option for sure, but tedious.

Yeah I understand I’ll probably stay away from it for the meantime and check out clean ones for the extra dollar [emoji1362] cheers
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...