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Pressure brake bleeder for R33 (GTST, but probably all)

GeeDog
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GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

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Wondering if anyone has made or bought a brake pressure bleeding setup for an R33 GTST master cylinder.

I need to pressure bleed the brakes in my wife's euro, so I've made up a pressure bleeder using a weed sprayer from bunnings, a Volvo master cylinder cap from the wreckers (don't have a Volvo, but most euros seem to use the same screw-on MC cap), a pressure gauge, and a few brass 1/4 BSP fittings. It fits and seals on the euro cars I have - haven't actuall bled the brakes yet but no reason why it won't work.

While I was at the wreckers I also bought a Nissan MC cap - the 3 tab, 1/4 turn style - and made up an attachment to use it on the same bleeder. I can't get it to seal onto the master cylinder - as soon as I pressurise the line it leaks like a sieve from where the cap seals to the outer lip of the M/C. I tried a couple of different seals, but still the same. I haven't been able to find an off-the-shelf cap to suit a pressure bleeder either.

Anyone done this with one of these M/C's? Anyone know of an afermarket cap or seal that would work better.

Geoff

 

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I've got an SP tools one I use on the 32 GTR, 33 GTST is probably the same I guess as they all use the same master cylinder. SP70821

BTW thread over here for another option....note that it took me months to get the correct part from SP....

 

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

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Thanks Duncan - just the info I was looking for.

What fits into the hole in the SP Tools adaptor - I'm guessing the SP kit includes something that seals and connects to the pipe. The hole looks too large to take a Nitto or similar quick connect directly. I'm not sure how I'd be able to connect my hose to it as is.

The alloy Motive adaptor looks nice, but I can't find an AU supplier. 

I

 

  • 3 weeks later...
GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

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Posted (edited)

Just to bring this up to date - it may help others looking to do the same.

I made a pressure bleeder using a Bunnings weed sprayer, a few brass fittings, a cheap pressure gauge, and a female quick-disconnect fitting. There is plenty of info on the web about this. The main thing I did different was to put the pressure gauge at the master cylinder end of the hose, rather than trying to tap it into the weed sprayer bottle.

20181120_180003.thumb.jpg.ae2ee5fa34c52e154fb1c48d020e3832.jpg

I've got a couple of euro cars as my wife & my daily's, plus an R33 GTST track car, and wanted to be able to use the bleeder on all of them.

The euros were easy - they both (like most euros it seems) have a screw-on master cylinder cap. I went to the wreckers (U-Pull-It in SA, so I could walk around the cars and choose what I wanted) and bought a euro MC cap. I actually got a Volvo one, as the top surface was flatter and suited what I wanted to do. I drilled a hole in the centre of the cap, and self-threaded a 1/4 BSP quick-disconnect male fitting into it, with an o-ring to help seal the fitting to the cap. To bleed brakes, remove the MC cap from the car & replace with the modified MC cap, put new brake fluid into the weed sprayer (optional - you can also disconnect & refill the MC as needed while bleeding), pump the weed sprayer up to around 15psi, and start bleeding from the furthest wheel. I connected a length of clear hose to the bleed nipple, and put the other end into a waste bottle. Cracking the bleed nipple lets fluid flow out into the waste bottle, pushed by the air pressure into the master cylinder. Repeat for each wheel, making sure the MC doesn't run dry.

20181120_175941.thumb.jpg.38e1959998d444518bfcb0427dae32ac.jpg

 

The R33 was more of a challenge. I also bought a Nissan MC cap from the wreckers, and threaded a QD fitting into it like I did for the euro. When I tried this on the R33, the cap didn't seal well enough to the MC. I couldn't maintain air pressure, and if I put new fluid in the weed sprayer it leaked out of the MC cap. After doing some searching, I realised that the commercial bleeders seal against the inside wall of the MC, not against the top surface. I then drew & 3D printed a bung, with an o-ring groove, which fits into the top of the MC. I used the cap from the wreckers, with a larger hole drilled in the top, to stop the bung from being forced out by the air pressure. I haven't actually bled the brakes yet with this bung, but it holds pressure so should work fine.

20181120_175918.thumb.jpg.13d7b7736b34ba7adf656fc360a15273.jpg

All up cost was less than $30, but I already had the brass fittings, pressure gauge & QD fittings.

Edited by GeeDog
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