Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I drove mine around on the base map for a while and there were no probs. BUT I took it very easy becuase you dont know if its gonna lean out or not. If you are going to use a bleed you will need to go into the etc menu and turn off the boost controll from there otherwise you car wont start or idle right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47875-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-965205
Share on other sites

so what will run with a power fc (boosting)
WTF?

OK, If you install your PFC without the OPTIONAL BOOST KIT then you will have to tell the PFC that you do not have the boost kit (done in hand controller menu) and the car will boost up to stock psi levels (7psi)

NOTE: If you dont have a hand controller then you cannot tell the PFC that there is no Boost Kit and your car wont start...

Your 2 other options are:

1) Buy a Bleed valve or EBC and tell the PFC that you dont have the boost kit

2) buy the boost kit for the PFC and use the hand controller to set boost levels.

I would suggest number 2... Unless you are strapped for cash? (you can get a bleed for about $50)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47875-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-965309
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...