Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR V-SPEC ATTESA Code 31 ET-S Solenoid or Circuit

Dee JL

By Dee JL,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dee JL Newbie

Dee JL

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I have a R33 GTR V-Spec with a problem that originally started out as the 4WD and A-LSD light coming on after about 20 minutes of driving (hit or miss). I could turn the car off and turn it back on and it would go away for another 20 minutes. Now the lights are constantly on. I've checked the blinking red light on the ATTESA ECU and it is code "31 - ET-S Solenoid or Circuit". I've searched everywhere for a replacement solenoid and it doesn't seem to be a thing. And I have yet to see any wires that come from it. I've taken the pump relay and shorted the red and yellow wire together to see if the pump is still working, in which is does. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? Maybe a faulty ground wire? Where would I look for the wires that belong to the ET-S Solenoid?

  • 10 months later...
JBeach Newbie

JBeach

Posted
Posted
On 12/29/2020 at 6:31 PM, Dee JL said:

Hello,

I have a R33 GTR V-Spec with a problem that originally started out as the 4WD and A-LSD light coming on after about 20 minutes of driving (hit or miss). I could turn the car off and turn it back on and it would go away for another 20 minutes. Now the lights are constantly on. I've checked the blinking red light on the ATTESA ECU and it is code "31 - ET-S Solenoid or Circuit". I've searched everywhere for a replacement solenoid and it doesn't seem to be a thing. And I have yet to see any wires that come from it. I've taken the pump relay and shorted the red and yellow wire together to see if the pump is still working, in which is does. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? Maybe a faulty ground wire? Where would I look for the wires that belong to the ET-S Solenoid?

Did you ever figure your issue out? I’m also having an issue where the front will not disengage with car off and I have a fault code 31 as well. Any help will be much appreciated!

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/19/2021 at 11:35 PM, JBeach said:

Did you ever figure your issue out? I’m also having an issue where the front will not disengage with car off and I have a fault code 31 as well. Any help will be much appreciated!

image.thumb.png.ecb79d92c163d52126e2cb41bdb49fd5.png

It's a very simple circuit, chase the wires. Shouldn't be seeing any battery power to the solenoid with the car off, the positive side is shut off by the ignition switch.

JBeach Newbie

JBeach

Posted
Posted
On 11/21/2021 at 11:42 AM, joshuaho96 said:

image.thumb.png.ecb79d92c163d52126e2cb41bdb49fd5.png

It's a very simple circuit, chase the wires. Shouldn't be seeing any battery power to the solenoid with the car off, the positive side is shut off by the ignition switch.

Yeah I’ve been using the diagram attached. After about 12-24hrs with car off, my front wheels finally spin freely. But again, when cars running pressure is built and doesn’t seem to disengage.
The code 31 was from a friends ET-S computer I installed on mine. When the code is present I can not turn at all because my front is locked. My original computer doesn’t give any fault codes and doesn’t lock the front up when driving. I gave up and took it to a mechanic and he thinks it’s the ET-S solenoid. Unfortunately, the complete pump isn’t cheap for a “I think it’s the solenoid”. 

5BEDFAE9-1512-44EA-996D-B725DCF1A1CB.jpeg

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
On 11/22/2021 at 4:27 AM, JBeach said:

Yeah I’ve been using the diagram attached. After about 12-24hrs with car off, my front wheels finally spin freely. But again, when cars running pressure is built and doesn’t seem to disengage.
The code 31 was from a friends ET-S computer I installed on mine. When the code is present I can not turn at all because my front is locked. My original computer doesn’t give any fault codes and doesn’t lock the front up when driving. I gave up and took it to a mechanic and he thinks it’s the ET-S solenoid. Unfortunately, the complete pump isn’t cheap for a “I think it’s the solenoid”. 

5BEDFAE9-1512-44EA-996D-B725DCF1A1CB.jpeg

Instead of just guessing you should unplug the solenoid connector and measure the voltages on all the pins with the ignition on. If you see the ATTESA controller engaging the pump solenoid and the pump is locking up the transfer case then there's no point in trying to replace the pump assembly, it's just doing what it's being told to do. I would be concerned that you have something in your car's harness that is injecting voltage to the pump solenoid even though the ATTESA controller is not commanding it. That would definitely throw a fault code as the controller can detect what appears to be either a short circuit or open circuit. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...