Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I recently bought a built R34 GTT. The Car is making around 350kw and uses a Haltech Plugin ECU.

It runs beautifully when warm, but has some troubles starting up when cold and responsing to small throttle inputs. It actually manages to stall if you give it really light throttle and won't turn on again (i guess it drowns in gas) for some time.

If you push the throttle a little more it will response correctly, this also happens during Cold Engine driving and switches as soon as a temp. Threshold is aquired (feels like a different car).

I'm getting in Touch with the Company that mapped the Car and built the Engine, but wanted to be sure its not some mechanical failure of the ICV or something like that.

I tried to show the behavior in this Video:

 

Yes i asked him for the Password today, as i only got to it couple hours ago. Had to sort minor other stuff on the Car first and only own it 2 weeks now.

I work in IT and made an apprenticeship as a car mechanic, so i have a Basic Knowledge about what AFR, Ignition Timing, Cold Enrichment and such is, but actually no idea how i'd tackle that behavior of the car without breaking the Engine.

You're saying i could sort this easily on my own, do you think its running too rich? (Since the Garage is smelling like Gasoline running cold)

When you get access to the ECU, post up screen shots of your fuel tables for: 

Base fuel map
Prime pulse time table
Post-start enrich table
Cool temp correction table

This will give us a good starting point. 

Also if you could log all the data for a cold start and upload it here that will be a massive help too. 

You won't break the engine mate, take small steps and you'll be fine. We can help you along the way :)

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...