Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it's not dropping back it sounds a bit like wastegate creep as you have improved the efficiency of the system. I had this problem once i installed a full exhaust on a series 4 13bt but they are notorious for creep.

The car should make a small amont of boost late in the rev range with the gate wired open but not that much!

For a long shot: does the car definately have a stock turbo on it? It hasn't been swaped for an rb20 one maybe?

Sounds like oil in the actuator, I've seen it happen to a R33 recently. Boost will keep rising under accelleration intil you back off. This was using avc-r and it wasent that solinoid because we swaped it into another and it worked fine.

It's got nothing to do with the actuator...

If its wired open it shouldnt make any boost at all. :uh-huh:

Well it does... Thanks anyway...

If it's not dropping back it sounds a bit like wastegate creep as you have improved the efficiency of the system. I had this problem once i installed a full exhaust on a series 4 13bt but they are notorious for creep.

The car should make a small amont of boost late in the rev range with the gate wired open but not that much!

For a long shot: does the car definately have a stock turbo on it? It hasn't been swaped for an rb20 one maybe?

Yeah hopefully dropping the exhaust after the front pipe might reveal something... It seems like an efficiency problem to me but why am I the only one experiencing it?

Car has a 3" dump and front in one... (not split wastegate)... 3" Trust cat back... Fairly old cat back though... 3 mufflers in it too... All straight through but... Hmmm wonder if I'm up for a new exhaust...

I expected a little boost up high with the gate wired open, but it's making heaps...

Car was stock as can be when I bought it... First owner in Australia... So I doubt the turbo is different... Looks like a 33 unit to me... No signs of any work being carried out around there in the past either...

:mad:

It's got nothing to do with the actuator...

 

   

 Well it does...  Thanks anyway...

 

 

Yeah hopefully dropping the exhaust after the front pipe might reveal something...  It seems like an efficiency problem to me but why am I the only one experiencing it?

 

Car has a 3" dump and front in one...  (not split wastegate)...  3" Trust cat back...  Fairly old cat back though... 3 mufflers in it too...  All straight through but...  Hmmm wonder if I'm up for a new exhaust...

 

I expected a little boost up high with the gate wired open, but it's making heaps...

 

Car was stock as can be when I bought it...  First owner in Australia...  So I doubt the turbo is different...  Looks like a 33 unit to me...  No signs of any work being carried out around there in the past either...

 

:)

if u wired the gate open and its still making boost. something must be up with ur wastegate flapper or there is a blockage on the diversion port. its the only explanantion as to why the ehxuast gasses arnt bypassing the turbine.

I noticed the same problem when I got my exhaust fixed. It's a full 3.5" setup and the front pipe had a big dent in it. When I took this dent out and removed the cat on stock boost it was maxing at about 0.8 bar. On saturday it was real cold and was maxing at about 0.9 bar, so the car had bugger all power from 5000rpm upwards as it was hitting the boost cut.

ok we can all stop talking about the controling system , he has said more than once that he had the waste gate wired fully open. This is not that un common after fit ment of a larger exhaust system. the turbo becomes more efficient (free flowing) increasing boost in the top end. ways to combat this is to..

modify the dump in a way to incrase the flow of the waste gate gas, at the moment it simply cant divert enough pressure from going though the turbo wheel to get your desired boost level.

If that has been done or is done to the best you can the next step is a bit more hard core but i have done it and got resaults and so have others that i told. (may fined on a search)

this is to drop the exhaust of the back of the turbo to acess the gate.

you will see that the the gate over laps the waste hole buy about 3 to 4mm.

with a die grinder or round file would be safer increase the diameter of the hole buy 1 to 2 mm but make shore the gate will still easly cover the hole. also pay attention to the angle the hole is in relation to exhaust flow.(90 degrees) taking a bit of the inside edge out will make it flow better also. 1mm in diameter will make a big differance.

See the thing is the system all works well in the stock set up but once you change one thing it has an effect on another so you have to even the ratio back.

Instead of wiring the wastegate open, you should be able to slide the wastegate control arm of the flap, so that the wastegate flap can be left......flapping.

This way you will definately know that the wastegate is 100% open when on boost instead of trusting your wiring job.

You should not be making any boost if this is done correctly.

Have you checked to see if the wastegate arm has not be bent? May have been suggested before?

I dont think you really need to go the the extent of what RBVS is suggesting as its not a common problem you are experiencing.

My money is on the wastegate arm being bent.

The shitty thing is its probably something really simple. Thats cars for you...

OK, from the top...

Probally a long shot but that DIY boost controller you had before did you have to put a restrictor in the actuator line?

The restriction was adjustable (ball valve) and has definately been removed... Good idea thought... :cheers:

ok we can all stop talking about the controling system , he has said more than once that he had the waste gate wired fully open. This is not that un common after fit ment of a larger exhaust system. the turbo becomes more efficient (free flowing) increasing boost in the top end. ways to combat this is to..

  modify the dump in a way to incrase the flow of the waste gate gas, at the moment it simply cant divert enough pressure from going though the turbo wheel to get your desired boost level.

  If that has been done or is done to the best you can the next step is a bit more hard core but i have done it and got resaults and so have others that i told. (may fined on a search)

  this is to drop the exhaust of the back of the turbo to acess the gate.

  you will see that the the gate over laps the waste hole buy about 3 to 4mm.

  with a die grinder or round file would be safer increase the diameter of the hole buy 1 to 2 mm but make shore the gate will still easly cover the hole. also pay attention to the angle the hole is in relation to exhaust flow.(90 degrees) taking a bit of the inside edge out will make it flow better also. 1mm in diameter will make a big differance.

  See the thing is the system all works well in the stock set up but once you change one thing it has an effect on another so you have to even the ratio back.

Firstly, you are correct... This has nothing to do with the controling system... The front half of the exhaust is about as good as it's going to get ATM... I still haven't had a chance to drop the cat back and take it for a spin to see how that goes... I understand what your saying about the wastegate outlet and I've heard of this being done before... But as Doctor says below, it's not a common problem... I'm honestly not confident enough myself to go filing / grinding away at the exhaust housing of my turbo... If it comes to that, I'll send it to GCG and they can "go to town" on it...

Instead of wiring the wastegate open, you should be able to slide the wastegate control arm of the flap, so that the wastegate flap can be left......flapping.

  This way you will definately know that the wastegate is 100% open when on boost instead of trusting your wiring job.

  You should not be making any boost if this is done correctly.

 

  Have you checked to see if the wastegate arm has not be bent? May have been suggested before?

 

  I dont think you really need to go the the extent of what RBVS is suggesting as its not a common problem you are experiencing.

 

  My money is on the wastegate arm being bent.

 

  The shitty thing is its probably something really simple. Thats cars for you...

Doctor, when I wired the gate open, I did remove the actuator arm from the gate flap... The flap was, as you say, flapping... I then wired the flap open so there was no chance of it flapping closed when I was testing it... I hope you understand what I'm saying... There was no tension / preload on the wastegate flap at all... It was 100% open for 100% of the time I tested it...

With this setup, it still made excessive boost...

So I don't think it's the control arm as this was disconnected...

As you say though, it's probably something really simple... I just can't for the life of me work it out... :D

Thanks all...

i interpreted it as the waste gate being disconected and instead of flapping around its just sucured in the fully open position buy some wire. If thats right and in doing that its running 12psi plus how could it be a bent aculator rod, all the controling of boost is eliminated form the situation and it just leaves us with the way the gass exits.(flow)

as iv said i have had hands on with this situation. Ive had my waste gate flapping and made 14psi at 7000rpm. So i did what i sudjested above and boost droped to 10psi.

also done with a mates car. ill try and fined the other thread were someone ealse also has done it.

like i said it is a bit hard core but i can only offer my advise. most times just fixed with a proven dump pipe like a hks twin which offers better flow for the waste gate than a stock dump conected to a 3'' system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...