Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just wondering if anybody knows of a link to a site with info on a launch control system for drag racing.

The car in question already has a Wolf 3d fitted and has a manual transmission. So hopefully it would still function fine on its own or even in unison with the wolf.

I had a quick look on the web but couldnt find anything.

I know I remember seeing something written about some type of stand alone launch control system but cant find it anywhere.

Forgot the exact method of how it worked but you could hold the pedal flat to the floor and it would stay at your pre set launch rpm. Also said something about giving the ability to change gears without lifting off the pedal.

Anybody seen what I am talking about or know of something similar?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48252-launch-control/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
Hey Guys,

Just wondering if anybody knows of a link to a site with info on a launch control system for drag racing.

The car in question already has a Wolf 3d fitted and has a manual transmission. So hopefully it would still function fine on its own or even in unison with the wolf.

I had a quick look on the web but couldnt find anything.

I know I remember seeing something written about some type of stand alone launch control system but cant find it anywhere.

Forgot the exact method of how it worked but you could hold the pedal flat to the floor and it would stay at your pre set launch rpm. Also said something about giving the ability to change gears without lifting off the pedal.

Anybody seen what I am talking about or know of something similar?

yeah have seen what you talking about.i think the one i saw has a clutch cut as well so you keep your right foot flat for the entire run.jms were advertising one of these a couple of months ago.it might pay to give them a call...Paul...DIRTgarage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48252-launch-control/#findComment-971531
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Yeh i am after a Launch Control system also, i found one in an old Zoom mag (issue 53) but on contacting Advan Performance centre they no longer sell them.

BUT!

have a look in the september issue of Hot4s (no i don't 'normally' buy it mates car was featured in it) and in the autobarn advert they had a kit which started at $199 for a similar brand. Need to do a bit more research and go chat to my mate at autobarn, but i can let you know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48252-launch-control/#findComment-1114984
Share on other sites

wat you need is something called a high stall. You set the stall to a max rpm before you lose too much traction (wheelspin). eg set the stall to 3500 rpm and no matter how hard you press the accelerator it wont go past it on a launch. a mate of mine had a high stall on his hk (i think) holden running 9 sec quarters. but i dont know where you could get one. best advice is speak to a specialist mechanic who deals with high performance cars

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48252-launch-control/#findComment-1119100
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...