0HR-30T

I'd imagine it'd be the Toy Shop.

Any updates on this?

Hey guys & gals. Does anyone here know how to get the pulley off a 4WS R32 power steering pump? I can't see any little grub screws,circlips,etc anywhere,and there's no bolt on the front of it.... so how does it come off?!?!??? Is there a special tool required or something? Cheers for any help

Pwoh nice! Is that "Aero Special" a 1:24th scale? and was it from that Rainbow 10 place?

I wasn't the one that said they were 1" shorter I believe they are in fact shorter,if memory servers from numerious other threads on here.Have a search and you'll dig up the info

Yeah,they are different though! Spacers under Aussie inserts is rather dodgey too,as the top of the Jap inserts are different shape to Aussie ones as well! And the import struts have a solid top hat with a proper ball bearing race,as opposed to sloppy rubber ones for the local model.

Also be aware that HR31 inserts are diferent to R31 ones.

Sorry, you must've missread my post above yours. "After fitting some BBS wheels, there wasn't a full nut's worth of thread sticking out on my GTS-X,so had to go to longer units..." IE I needed 3" studs after putting the wheels on as there wasn't enough thread sticking through the new wheels. I'd say my stock HR31 GTS-X studs would be the same length as R31 GTS units,and as I said,they were not long enough. Probably didn't need 3"ones,but meh...

Smack me up the back of the head if I'm missing something here...........but I don't understand WTF the RTA would care about longer wheel studs????? They don't change effective track/offset,etc the only difference is there's more stud sticking through the wheel nut (assuming stock style open end nuts) The only problem I can see with that,is if you have to remove your mags and fit stock steelies....then your 3" studs look like stunt pegs on a pushie Ask me how I know

Some of th elater model ones...but was a RB25DE only

disco,surely aftermarket wheel studs are not illeagal??? After fitting some BBS wheels, there wasn't a full nut's worth of thread sticking out on my GTS-X,so had to go to longer units...

I got 3" studs through the local autobarn...

HR31 HICAS isn't speed sensitive AFAIK as it works all the time.Not driven from the boss kit either,it's mostly plain hydrolic. I think the actual sensor is behind the dash.There's a feed to the ecu for spoiler, speed ding,etc

I just assumed they'd be a bit different at the bottom,as the HR30 has a stone tray,and the iron mask has a full length bar. Similar to the ser 1 and ser 3 R31 fronts.The gaurds are slightly diferent on them,but if the '30s are the same.......... meh

If you get all the bits it is. ie gaurds,bonnet and striker plate,lights,etc

I disagree. B) The imports are far better cars than the local versions, and despite the fact that RB20's suck ass,can be made to go ok with the usual mods,and much cheaper than to get the same perormance out of an RB30E. Really it depends on your driving style,and what you expect out of the car.

Nice one.

Well,I'd imagine it'd be a similar thing to having guides at the side of the radiator at the front,to direct as much of the total air as possible through it.The result would be a nice clean path for the air to flow through the rad.Same on the back side...instead of letting the air blow through the croe and into the engine bay,why not make some guides on the rear of it,so as to direct it up and out the vent,once again giving the same clean path for the air to flow,and keeping air velocity up,since I'd imagine once passing through the rad and into the engine bay area,it's flow would be disrupted. Yes just a vent using negative pressure would draw some air out of the bay,but to my mind,it wouldn't be as effective as if it were guided out,so the air flow through the core,as well as negative pressure would be pushing/drawing it out. Just my thoughts PS-how did the vents turn out? EDIT - just realised that I've missread you original post.Geez I'm a dumbass Still think some form of guides would be good.Eg-if you wanted to vent out some hot air from the turbo/exhaust area,you could have a little "scoop" on the underside of the bonnet that when the bonet was closed,the scoop fitted close to the exhaust manafold,etc. Keep in mind that too close to the screen would be a high pressure area though!

Isn't enamal paint thinners 90% odd Acetone?

I have had some 16, 1/2 inch louvres punched into an IRON MASK bonnet at a point behind the front of the engine. I figure with 3 each side of centre on the top ridge and about 5 of varying widths in each side channel, I will create a drift style effect at a portion of the cost plus increase the air flow through the radiators & coolers up front without having to tilt up the rear of the bonnet. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I assume you're also going to make some guides from the bonet to the rear of the radiator to direct as much air as possible up and out? (that's what I'm planning )I've been looking at the Jetspeed 'drift vent' for $110,but don't think I want a raised thing on the bonet How did you go with the bonet skin getting punched? Any distortion at all?

Yeah that seems very odd. Why go to the trouble of converting AUSSIE struts when the HR31 has the magic 100mm bolt spacing for the 4 pots anyway??? Only reason I can think of is to keep 15" wheels (?) You'd want to have bloody nice 15's to warrant that expense though! And Ghostrider,what have you had done to your bonet?

You could start searching for some early D/HR30 lights.They have an "uncovered" design.....be prepared to search for a while though :S

I think you'll fiind the '31 lights are like these. No clear "cover" on them originally. I've seen normal Aussie series 3 lights with the covers cut off,but they look a bit dodgey to me.

Oh,my bad I thought I read somewhere you were after other bits as well.. Hope it all comes together

Fair enough Might be easier to buy a short motor or one to suit rebuild rather than chase parts maybe?