Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm in the process of trying to restore my old R32 GTS-t M coupe.  Cars never been modified which is rare but it's a factory Auto.  I've got all the OE pedals etc. and a manual box and but it has a destroyed input shaft and some wear damage to the main shaft.  Otherwise the rest is mint with late large gear/multi syncro - trans shop reckon it may have been a good box reassembled with a smashed input and flogged off to me (but it was fairly cheap...)

I'm after as much info about the late OE R32 GTS-t gearbox I can get.  So far I only know the ratios they came with from a Nissan Brochure I have.

Main question is: What is the R32 GTS-t OEM input shaft / counter gear tooth count and does this match a R34 25GT NA gearbox? (- I can possibly get a new OEM R34 input shaft through Amayama.com NZ$475).

I've attached the Service manual Gearbox tooth count info I've found for a KA24DE FS5W71C.  Does anyone have this service manual info for the R32 RB20DE(T) and the R34 RB25DE?  Anyone have the service manual for the R32 GTS-t gearbox at all?  Even in Japanese?  It also looks like there may have been some different gear ratios for R34 RB25's (early/late)?

I've also found that there's a few places in the US doing aftermarket Input shaft/Counter gear sets for their S14 240SX's (US$120) - would these be the correct tooth count/parts for an OEM R32 GTS-t?  Anything about a S14 240 Input shaft that doesn't work for an RB?  I'm also looking at shot peening all the gears to help durability anyway so maybe aftermarket will be ok?

Any help appreciated, thanks!

InkedRatios FS5W71C 240SX SAU.jpg

InkedRatios FS5W71C 240SX SAU2.jpg

I can tell you that  25DE boxes definitely have different ratios compared to RB20DET. I replaced by R32 box with an R34 NA box and one of the ratios was quite noticeably different. Can't remember if it was 2nd or 3rd (was 15 year ago, since replaced with a box strong enough to handle a 25). I recall I was happier with the 25DE ratios - longer legs in whatever gear it was that it was most noticeable in.

Anyway, the only value i have to offer is that it is quite likely that 25DE parts might struggle to mesh with 20DET parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...