Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

As the title says, my intermittent wipers have stopped working. Normal and high speed still work fine. When I switch from normal to int, the wipers stop in the middle of the windscreen for a second then return to their resting position for... well... rest :D

Any ideas? Its not the fuse coz normal and high speed still work. Anyone know how to get the Wiper Stalk out so I can check connections etc?

:D

Dunno about Skylines (mine hasn't missed a beat) but in other Nissan's I've got this problem was caused by a faulty "Intermittant Wiper Amplifier", as the manual called it. Normal and high still worked fine, but Intermittant would sometimes work, sometimes leave the wipers in the middle of the screen or sometimes not move.

Putting in a 2nd hand amplifier thingy fixed it. They must have something similar for the Skylines...

Normal and high still worked fine, but Intermittant would sometimes work, sometimes leave the wipers in the middle of the screen or sometimes not move.

Thats exactly what is happening :rofl:

Where is this 'amplifier' located?

  • 6 months later...
Thats exactly what is happening ;)

Where is this 'amplifier' located?

riggaP,

Found your thread from doing an 'intermittent' word search.

Having exact same problem with my R33.

Just wondering if you ended up sorting this out???

If so how and how much $$$???

:)

Sorry dude, cant help ya. I still aint got round to getting it fixed as I've been real busy the last few months.

Its a fu(kin annoying problem. Will get it sorted soon and let you know. Let me know how you go too :(

Sorry dude, cant help ya. I still aint got round to getting it fixed as I've been real busy the last few months.  

Its a fu(kin annoying problem. Will get it sorted soon and let you know. Let me know how you go too :P

Yeah, kinda know what you mean. I find myself concentrating on the right time to turn the wipers off so that they don’t end up in the middle of the windscreen!

Or i end up looking like a goose cuz the wipers are going heaps fast when its only sprinkling.... aghhhhhhhhhh!

My mate said to me that things could be worse; the wipers could not be working at all! I guess he’s right?!?!?

Anyways, I just got off the phone with Just Jap in Kirrawee, Sydney and the guy I spoke to said that there is a 'solenoid relay' that controls the wiper speed positioned to one side of engine bay. (he actually said 'left hand side of the engine bay' but I guess it depends on where your standing...hmmm) I assume it’s the driver side as this is closer to the base of the window wipers??? This may need to be replaced. Also said that he can get us one for bout $50 and I should be able to install myself. I'm no grease monkey but I’ll give it a go!

Hoping to go out to Just Jap next week sometime.

Will let you know how I go.

:(

skye, please let me know if you get it fixed :P

riggaP,

Problem fixed!!!

Picked up an 'intermittent wiper relay' from just jap for 40 bucks on the weekend.

Just plugged existing intermittent wiper cable into it and off she went.

It’s a brownish box bout the size of a garage remote.

When standing in front of the car, it sits in the top right hand side of the engine bay... just above the front passenger side wheel arch.

What was strange was, I was meant to replace the one that I already had but didn’t have one at all???

Just a loose cable with nowhere to go??? Anyways, its working now so all good.

Not sure if this is same solution for your car, but if it is... should be able to pick up one of these from a local 2nd hand import place.

Having a bit of trouble uploading an image of 'relay' but can e-mail to you if you need it.

Hope this helps.

:)

]']same here with R32

i think i need em too

where is it located?

Read the post again....it says:

It’s a brownish box bout the size of a garage remote. When standing in front of the car, it sits in the top right hand side of the engine bay... just above the front passenger side wheel arch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...