Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering has anyone done any dyno runs with toluene?? Just did two runs on the weekend, one with out and one with Toluene. 160 with out and 166 with the Toluene in. The mixture was only 7:1 and still got a result, just a fluke or has anyone else also had any good results?? :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by U ZCREAM

Hmmm, you should be careful with that stuff. I hear it can dry out your injectors. But if you're only using a small amount for a short period, you should be fine

You are thinking of methanol (I think?). Toluene doesn't have this effect. The problem with toluene is getting a cold start when you run too high a mixture on a cold day.

MattR - It's good stuff isn't it.

:D

I've had a test on mine, no dyno time just a nice 200kms worth of driving. You will find that you can run more boost as well (within the limits of your headgasket and turbo of course). I ran a brief 14psi to test and it went fine.

With extra boost I'm sure you can get more than 166. BTW what mixture did you run?

From memory mine was 25-30%, I'd say a 10-15% would be better without a remapp unless you go extra boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-76174
Share on other sites

Gav as far as I know Toluene an Metholbenzene are diffarant according to the material safety data sheets. Toluene can be bought as a solvent or as a fuel addative, if you buy it as a solvent you pay about $50 for 20 litres if you buy it for a addative you pay about $70.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-76952
Share on other sites

Actually correct chemical name IS methylbenzene, (methobenzene is also commonly used but is a misnomer).

I stole 4 litres when I did my chemistry/metallurgy degree (too many years ago now) and mixed it in the fule tank of my EK Holden (202 tripple f*ck yous, a lumpy seat and exagerators).

Thems were the day me boy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77134
Share on other sites

MattR.. You run a bleed setup don't you?

You should be getting boost drop to 12 maybe 13psi up top.

Slap more boost in to it.. Maybe up to 17psi in the mid but it will drop back off to 13psi up top anyhow..

I ran my turbo like that for a while didn't damage it as far as I know.. Now with the EBC it holds 15psi all the way to redline and made 164rwkw with a untuned ecu.. So with a tuned ecu i might crack the 170 mark.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77251
Share on other sites

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...25&pagenumber=1

This is an previous thread on toluene, covers most of the questions, including the myth about toluene perishing fuel hoses.

BTW I think Boostmeister had a dyno run with 30%toluene mix and got 2rwkw extra without raising the boost any (where the extra power lives)

MattR; The stock turbo shouldn't have the boost raised past 1 bar anyway, so its of little value unless you get it rebuilt with a steel wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77831
Share on other sites

Oh you still running stock cooler..

Maybe thats why the octane boost made such a difference as the air is hot and maybe there was really slight detonation where the ecu was pulling out timing and with the octane boost there was no more detonation..?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-78163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
    • Plan B? Get someone to machine up a metal bush/collar/whatever it needs to be to replace the rubber? I haven't had a close look at that part recently to have a proper feel for whether that's possible. But it might be easy.
    • I do not want to install a short shifter and the only other stock throw shifter I have seen is the Nismo "Rigid shifter" for $290 So plan A is to fill it with sikaflex to stiffen it up and hope for the best
×
×
  • Create New...