Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my second swaybar mount broke tonite (front passenger side), or it could've been slowly falling off over the past couple of days no im really unsure. my kit has been on the car for atleast a year and half now with several trackdays under my belt and its a daily driven car which frequents difficult terrain (read: speed bumps and what not).

just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same issue?

i ran aftermarket stiffer swaybars on my old wrx and never came across this before, however, i have heard of it being a common occurence....in any case, its an easy fix when you have a MIG welder around...

rs73, i'm using whiteline swaybars but i dont think these are to blame...ive ran whiteline swaybars on my old wrx and this car for about a year and a half and have never had a problem. i think its more nissan's failure to make strong swaybar brackets :)

roy, im using stock swaybar mounts or its more a bracket actually.

im getting it all fixed tomorrow so i'll try and get my mechanic to take some pics of the damage and the end result...

silver-arrowz, my mechanic has seen the same problem on 200sx's too....

So it's not the swaybar that broke, but the std mount?

Could this be attributed to using stiffer swaybar has put greater load on the mount when cornering?

PS: I used whiteline too, and my car's 11yo so this kinda worry me a bit.

I've ran sways on mine and no probs at all. Have you tighten the bolts too tight? A mate of mine did that on his nissan pulsar and the link kept snapping. The bushes need a little bit of free play.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...