Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the basic mods to gain extra power using stock parts, without having to go overboard

stock parts ??? i dont get that but i think you mean general mods without going overboard ???

get a 3" straight thorugh exhaust, panel filter, maybe a basic EBC after that its not really standard then you get your fmic's, bigger turbo, injectors, fuel pump etc etc

maybe i have read you post wrong but yea enjoy :)

exhaust = get a full 3" exhaust and include front pipe and dump pipe and hi flow cat

airbox = either get a panel filter (high flow version of stock filter) or get a pod filter (if you like the noise)

ebc = electronic boost controller or you can get a bleed valve or you can do the r33 dual stage hack in the DIY forum at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42895

ecu = get a $300 remap in the for sale section. will remove stock limits and should be some more power or get a full management ecu, power fc, microtech but they are $1000 + once tuned

with an exhaust and some more boost pressure about 12psi max you should have a lot more power than you are used to. if you do goto exhaust and boost @ 12psi or thereabouts be sure to get an intercooler also as the stock one will probably be inefficient. front mount with piping is around $1000

turbo would be the last thing to upgrade

once youve done the ecu, exhaust, boost, front mount the stock clutch probably wont last and will need a bigger/better one then your fuel pump could do with an upgrade, then injectors. then you can safely do turbo and get its full potential.

I've done up my 96 series 2 auto with min of cost so far ... Put a finer filter GTR panel foam filter. Cut an extra hole in the stock airbox and pipe to rear of headlight will increase intake airflow. A good FMIC I got one from Power Performance Products in Qld who make i/coolers. They make a good one specifically for skylines in that the inlet and outlets are on the same side so you'll need only a minimum of piping and can use all your standard engine bay turbo piping. A Turbosmart single stage manual adjust gated boost controller for about $95. That did wonders - the turbo spools up a lot more quickly. Gated to open @ 6psi. Have my max set at 8psi and runs great.

The next job is a 3inch car back system. I got my car set up so I can run all the stock bits ECU, blow off valve mixture and the like. and for little cost.. hope this helps.

Most important when you have everything set up a good dyno tune to have your cam belt and iginition timing including fuel mixtures re set with the turbo boost you want to run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...