Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49284-bedding-in-rings-recommended-option/
Share on other sites

my opinion is number one, since on the dyno you can load up the engine as much as you want (and rev it as high or low as you want at that load). i know people who have done this and had no trouble. some people go to the trouble of putting a lot of weight on their car (towing etc) so they can increase the load to bed rings in - but a full load run through 2nd gear even to 4000rpm is probably hard to do, especially without speeding.

however this is just my opinion and i've never rebuilt an engine myself.

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM, when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

oh and another thing have your tune spot on so your not using to much fuel as to not 'petrol wash your bores'

*yeah i know this can happen at any time its just a warning for somebody who has just invested in a rebuild*

BR,

JH

Just take it easy for the first 3 - 6 thousand k's always changing RPM,  when first start is done drive for a bit at different revs then load it up a hill with your brakes on a couple of times. never drive at a constant rpm and dont rev hard.

You dont want to thrash it with the running in oil becuase its shit oil and will carbonise easier then normal oil causing seal damage on your Turbo.

All the motors we rebuild and some have made over 600HP for more then 2 years have been fine with this method.

BR,

JH

Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

Mobil1 synthetic in it to start, run it in on the dyno and tune it up

Drive it for a 1000km's and change the oil.

if all looks good dont worry, and those 1000km's dont have to be ***** km's underload up hills and all that crap.

Just get out there and enjoy it. After the first 1000 go crazy.

Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

I have had conflicting opinions from different tuners as to the recommended run-in procedure for a freshly rebuilt RB26:-

1. bed in rings on a dyno, then light tune & run-in over 5000klms

2. no dyno, lock Power FC at 4500rpm & run in on street over 3000klms

Both agreed on run-in oil, low boost etc however number 2 said a dyno is not a good option first up - any ideas!?

my motor has just recently been built...ive got 1200kms on the clock...within this ive had 3 dyno tunes with full boost and a run at wsid......i had the same problem in deciding ....but what i feel is very important is dont use to thin of an oil to run it in....i was a bit hesistant to open her up in the first 300kms but what i did was gave it a tune to 6000rpm...she responded well.......it is also very important that ur mixtures arent too rich (mine is 12 flat) as the extra fuel will glaze the bores.....once u feel confident open her up... :headspin: :headspin:

Complete opposite of what you should do... synthetic + brand new engine = dead engine before too long

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

Not dead engine you just wont bed the rings in an she'll burn oil.. Not blue smoke out the back either you will just be down on oil all the time..

*The above depending on how bad the rings have not bedded in.*

I give a safe 300 - 500kmhs then open her up

BR,

JH

i had no doubt no-one would be able to accept that.

but ask the major manufacturers what tehy use... i think you'll find its synthetic.

Dont see the holen V6 dying before too long

none of the motors ive seen here in Vic are blowing oil, and lots have been running for years.

and some of these motors are cracking 400+awkw all-day everday in GTRs that regulary get flogged around the local circuits. Nothing im going to argue with at all.

each to thier own on this issue.. its just like BOV or no BOV.

I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

raist60,

I'd agree that an engine need not burn oil and run poorly if run in on synthetic if run in hard. However give me the same engine and mineral oil run in and I'll show you a motor with better compression and power every time (not to mention how much longer it's rings are going to last). The object is to get the rings to 'bite' nicely into the honed surface (a good surface hone is critical also). Synthetic oil like mobile 1 is so good at reducing the friction so it's never going to allow the kind of wear a 'run in' mineral oil will.

I ran mine in with synthetic. It also had a whole load of power runs as its "run-in". Sorry but all this bullshit people speak about run in is garbage, my motor was run in at full ball with a synth oil and about 4000k later its not burning oil and running like a psycho.

BTW this isnt an attempt to argue i couldnt give two ****s whether anyone believes me / wants to argue or whatever just thought it might help someone.

Ya, same from what ive seen, but with motors well over 20thou km's on em.

Nothing wrong with em yet.

When is the actual point when the rings bed just to add to the thread :)

Bl4cK32 No, but ill have to pay for my own, and considering it'll be money outta my pocket if its stuffed would kinda make sure that how mine is being done... is going to be a way that works.

but it doesnt worry holden or ford, so it doesnt worry me either

who has ever bought a brand new car and had to dump the oil at 1000 or whateva cause mineral or running in oil is used from the factory in your new car, synthetic straight up, why make your engine "wear in" ? just out of interest, buy a brand new porsche, mercedes HSV and see whats in it.... mobil 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...