Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

DRIFTT,

My car is NOT auto. I know Apexi don't make ECU's for anything Auto. That is not the problem, Apexi don't seem to make a ECU for a MANUAL RB 25DET which is also 4wd like the Stagea.

Gtst25, Good price on pfc, but unfortunately that won't work because of the four wheel drive system onj the Stagea

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49838-power-fc/#findComment-996604
Share on other sites

DRIFTT,

My car is NOT auto. I know Apexi don't make ECU's for anything Auto.    That is not the problem, Apexi don't seem to make a ECU for a MANUAL RB 25DET which is also 4wd like the Stagea.

Gtst25,  Good price on pfc, but unfortunately that won't work because of the four wheel drive system onj the Stagea

Cheers

Gary

i saw a modified stagea on jap site..(can`t find again)...but he was using HALTEC ems

may help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49838-power-fc/#findComment-996643
Share on other sites

DRIFTT,

My car is NOT auto. I know Apexi don't make ECU's for anything Auto.    That is not the problem, Apexi don't seem to make a ECU for a MANUAL RB 25DET which is also 4wd like the Stagea.

Gtst25,  Good price on pfc, but unfortunately that won't work because of the four wheel drive system onj the Stagea

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary, I see no killer reason a GTR Power FC wouldn't work on the RB25DET manual Stagea. You would have to parrallel up the feeds to the AFM (RB26DETT has 2 and RB25DET has 1), its only 1 wire. Plus you would loose the VVT of course (RB26DETT doesn't have VVT) but that gives you the freedom to use GTR (non VVT) cams, so no loss really.

The Emanage would be an "easier" solution but you would loose some of the PFC tunability. I guess it really depends on your power target and the involved mods. Personally up to ~220 awkw I would use the Emanage, over that and its Power FC time.

You should also have a talk to Steve-SST he can probably give you some tips on using a Wolf.

Hope that helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49838-power-fc/#findComment-996693
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...