Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt Change

HIPSI

By HIPSI,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

HIPSI Experienced

HIPSI

Posted
Posted

Ok i need a bit of help here, just changed my timing, fan, powersteering, ac belts.

I made sure all the timing markers etc all match up but after starting the car, it wont idle, just stalls everytime you take your foot off the accelerater.

Does this sound like i need to get the timing readjusted or something else??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50924-timing-belt-change/
Share on other sites
HIPSI Experienced

HIPSI

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Did you plug the sensor back in???

Also check your AFM plug if you disconnected that

Firstly yes everything that was disconnected has been reconnected correctly.

All the timing markers on the pulleys all match up with the correct markings on the belts.

I sorted out the stalling issue by adjusting the idle up slighty, but the car still feels very underpowered, any ideas????

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

check the timing , did you mark the position of the cas before removal ? did you put it back at the same pos ? my guess is your timing is a little retarded thats why you had to up the idle . so check timing with a timing light , about 15 deg .

HIPSI Experienced

HIPSI

Posted
  • Author
Posted
check the timing , did you mark the position of the cas before removal ? did you put it back at the same pos ? my guess is your timing is a little retarded thats why you had to up the idle . so check timing with a timing light , about 15 deg .

Yeah i marked the cas and put it back on the same mark, im taking it into a workshop 2morrow to get the timing checked.

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Yeah i marked the cas and put it back on the same mark, im taking it into a workshop 2morrow to get the timing checked.

dont forget that a couple of mm out it will be a few degrees and thats enough to make it slugish , provided you did everything right and didnt bend any valves , if you did it would be missing though so you should be able to tell .

when you check the timing you will find

out , hopefully she will be ok .

scuzzy , yes thats right if on top dead centre but carefull you can bend valves if you let it jump hard and hit top of piston .

when you have the timing belt off you shouldnt move the crank or cams until belt is back in place .

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
so when I pull the belt off will the cams move off top dead centre on their own

no but if you bump them they will move like 90 degrees just like they sprung , like you said they did . what i said was be carefull not to let them jump like that cause you may bend valves ( you are moving the valves and not the pistons ) if they hit the top of the pistons .

if you are replacing the timing belt make sure you know what you are doing , incorrect timing can stuff your engine as will incorrect tension , even the bolts that hold the tensioner and iddler pullies must be tensioned right . do them to tight and you break the bolts not tight enough and they come undone .

if you havent got a manual do a search in these forums and you will find how to do timing belt .

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted
Got the car back this afternoon, and the timing belt was out by just one tooth on the exhaust cam side. DAMN it made such a big difference to way the car would drive. All fixed now though.

how did you manage to put it in one tooth out when the belt has lines marked on it and each line has to match the mark on each pulley .

HIPSI Experienced

HIPSI

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how did you manage to put it in one tooth out when the belt has lines marked on it and each line has to match the mark on each pulley .

Good question :wassup:

Guess i just rushed it abit, i was sure i had it all lined up but i was wrong.

But doesn't matter now, i can enjoy driving the car again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...