Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps

ive just done a few searches and i cant find the info im after, so i thought id ask.

im trying to hook up my air fuel gauge and i dont know which is the signal wire on the o2 sensor. the autometer instructions say i have to splice the wire after the clamp thing but is that nessecary? the wire that i spliced after the clamp adapter thing is a thick wire with copper colour wire in the middle, silver wire around it then the clear sort of heat shrink around it. is this the right wire?

if anyone can give me any hints id appreciate it heaps!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51253-air-feul-ratio-gauge/
Share on other sites

Hi i fitted one of those to my car but it got stolen with the rest of my gauges anyway the wire i had it joint to was the middle wire on the plug it was a brown wire if you peel back the black stuff that covers the wires it should be a bit thicker than the other two (not the wires on the sensor) hope that helps

yep sic thats the wire i am trying to use, but it has like 2 different colour wires on the inside, like silver and copper, so i just join it to both then hey?

also does the gauge actuall start to work right away or does the car have to heat up 1st, casue ive hooked it all up and the gauge didnt work???

thanks for the help jason

just one last question- i have plugged everything in, and when its just the + and - wire in, there is a green led lit on the last point closest to the end of the rich section. then when i plug in the o2 sensor wire the screen goes blank, even wen the car is on. do i have to be driving for the thing to work or have i done sumthin wrong?

ok i got it all hooked up now, but wats it supposed to look like, about 4 leds light up at a time going up and down the face wen u rev it and on idle sumtimes, it just hits rich. but at night wen i turn the lights on, it read a couple of leds short, is this supposed to happen?

let me know if u think it is functioninf wrong.......thanks for the help so far:)

i tihnk there should only be one led on at a time, considering its measuring a ratio, not a range of ratios, the led will move rapidly though

the gauge should work alll the time, driving idling, warming up etc.... i believe the oxy sensor doesn't work effectively till its warm and hence the ecu ignores the signal from it when u cold start, but once warm u should get semi accurate readings regardless of wheter u r drivign / idling / just starting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...