Jump to content
SAU Community

Fiddly Stuff

gtst25

By gtst25,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted

After owning a couple of imports now I've come to realise that some parts etc may be hard or expensive to get. Here's a couple of little jobs some of you might want to do in the near future.

ELECTRIC AERIAL

My silvia had a horrible grinding noise when using the electric aerial. I've seen a lot of silvias and a few skylines where they've had to replace the aerial for a cheaper piece of junk.

One day mine just stopped half way down and I decided to have a go at pulling it apart and clean/lubricate it if possible- it took a couple of hours and when finished it worked like new. I used diesel and detergent to clean everything once apart and a white silicon based electrical lubricant when re-assembling. The workings inside were filthy with that black stuff you see in the engine bays etc - this clogged-up everything.

Skylines look like they've got the same aerial - my r33 hasn't given any problems yet but I'll probably do it one day.

HEATER HOSES

On the silvia I had one blow and after spending weeks clocking up a phone bill looking for new ones ( couldn't find anyone in QLD back then) I pulled the whole lot off and went to repco to see if anything matched. The ones around the back matched with VN commodore and Camira parts exactly - and only cost about 20 dollars!

CAMSHAFT BELT IDLER PULLEYS

Did the cam belt in the '33 and got some pretty wild prices from nissan for the idlers - ended up going to a company which specialises in bearings - they took the numbers and had the parts overnight.

I saved around 200 dollars here - it gives you a feeling of satisfaction when you get a big saving after doing the job yourself and hunt around a bit!

Anyway hope this helps a bit if anyone's mucking around doing these jobs - it all helps!

I'd be interested in any other helpful tips from other owners so post away if you like!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/
Share on other sites
Sumo Mentor

Sumo

Posted
Posted

Yeah, You can get cam belts to suit the r33 from aftermarket suppliers.

E.g. Anyone who stocks Gates belts and Hoses

And bearings? well I haven't seen the idler for the 33, but I assume you would only have to press a bearing out and press a new one in? Any bearing stockist usually have a good range of NSK.

Cheers

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1025503
Share on other sites
gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tensioner NSK 60TB0683 EA7L 806

Idler NSK 56TB2801B01 ENSL 309

Hey fellas

My dad and I looked into pressing out the bearings and putting in new ones but it looked like you'd have to be really skillfull not to wreck the whole thing. A bloke in Gympie QLD who's got all the right gear did it and the bearing lasted about a week and we all know what the bad outcome of a seized tensioner would be.

So we just bought the parts.The price was about a third of genuine so we were happy.

Another little blunder we ran into was the WATERPUMP. Dad's rb20's pump had a hernia and a VL one fit perfectly but on my '33 a bolt hole is different so you'd have to drill and tap a hole to suit or just buy the expensive r33 pump. Apparently on some 25's the VL pump fits but on mine it didn't. My car has only done 80000 so I'll leave it a bit longer.

That timing belt price is excellent. Where from??? Dad just paid over 100 bucks for one as he couldn't source one cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1025767
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

RTHIRTY3

Got the parts from the local bearing shop which deals with anything from excavator, chainsaw or car parts/bearings.

Any local bearing parts dealer which deals with NSK bearings should be fine.

Don't exactly know the name of the store - if you really want it I can email my dad.

The bloke can send stuff by mail.

The prices were around $56 for the idler and $76 for the tensioner - once again if you want to know exactly I can email my dad.

It saved me a lot - genuine was really expensive.

No problem at all with the parts - sit them next to the factory ones and they look exactly the same.

Dad's rb20 has got idler/tensioner from the same place too and it does a lot of miles.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1075307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...