Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After owning a couple of imports now I've come to realise that some parts etc may be hard or expensive to get. Here's a couple of little jobs some of you might want to do in the near future.

ELECTRIC AERIAL

My silvia had a horrible grinding noise when using the electric aerial. I've seen a lot of silvias and a few skylines where they've had to replace the aerial for a cheaper piece of junk.

One day mine just stopped half way down and I decided to have a go at pulling it apart and clean/lubricate it if possible- it took a couple of hours and when finished it worked like new. I used diesel and detergent to clean everything once apart and a white silicon based electrical lubricant when re-assembling. The workings inside were filthy with that black stuff you see in the engine bays etc - this clogged-up everything.

Skylines look like they've got the same aerial - my r33 hasn't given any problems yet but I'll probably do it one day.

HEATER HOSES

On the silvia I had one blow and after spending weeks clocking up a phone bill looking for new ones ( couldn't find anyone in QLD back then) I pulled the whole lot off and went to repco to see if anything matched. The ones around the back matched with VN commodore and Camira parts exactly - and only cost about 20 dollars!

CAMSHAFT BELT IDLER PULLEYS

Did the cam belt in the '33 and got some pretty wild prices from nissan for the idlers - ended up going to a company which specialises in bearings - they took the numbers and had the parts overnight.

I saved around 200 dollars here - it gives you a feeling of satisfaction when you get a big saving after doing the job yourself and hunt around a bit!

Anyway hope this helps a bit if anyone's mucking around doing these jobs - it all helps!

I'd be interested in any other helpful tips from other owners so post away if you like!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/
Share on other sites

Yeah, You can get cam belts to suit the r33 from aftermarket suppliers.

E.g. Anyone who stocks Gates belts and Hoses

And bearings? well I haven't seen the idler for the 33, but I assume you would only have to press a bearing out and press a new one in? Any bearing stockist usually have a good range of NSK.

Cheers

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1025503
Share on other sites

Tensioner NSK 60TB0683 EA7L 806

Idler NSK 56TB2801B01 ENSL 309

Hey fellas

My dad and I looked into pressing out the bearings and putting in new ones but it looked like you'd have to be really skillfull not to wreck the whole thing. A bloke in Gympie QLD who's got all the right gear did it and the bearing lasted about a week and we all know what the bad outcome of a seized tensioner would be.

So we just bought the parts.The price was about a third of genuine so we were happy.

Another little blunder we ran into was the WATERPUMP. Dad's rb20's pump had a hernia and a VL one fit perfectly but on my '33 a bolt hole is different so you'd have to drill and tap a hole to suit or just buy the expensive r33 pump. Apparently on some 25's the VL pump fits but on mine it didn't. My car has only done 80000 so I'll leave it a bit longer.

That timing belt price is excellent. Where from??? Dad just paid over 100 bucks for one as he couldn't source one cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1025767
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

RTHIRTY3

Got the parts from the local bearing shop which deals with anything from excavator, chainsaw or car parts/bearings.

Any local bearing parts dealer which deals with NSK bearings should be fine.

Don't exactly know the name of the store - if you really want it I can email my dad.

The bloke can send stuff by mail.

The prices were around $56 for the idler and $76 for the tensioner - once again if you want to know exactly I can email my dad.

It saved me a lot - genuine was really expensive.

No problem at all with the parts - sit them next to the factory ones and they look exactly the same.

Dad's rb20 has got idler/tensioner from the same place too and it does a lot of miles.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51857-fiddly-stuff/#findComment-1075307
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...