Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some of you may or may not know I have had some misfire problems.

My 32GTR would miss badly on load.

After a few weeks I sourced some new coils, and this solved most of the problems.

Until this time I had been running new OWS iridium plugs.

I tried (and have fixed) the very minor missing problem with changing back to coppers, but when I removed the OWS plugs (only 1000 kays), the electrode and tip were clean, but the plug seat (where it screws into the head) was wet on #2 and #3. The rest were dry.

Is this a problem?

I noticed the plugs were not completely tight - would this cause it?

Or driving around with dodgy coils fouling the plugs, then when new coils went in the tips and electrodes cleaned up - i.e. wetness left over from misfiring?

Any ideas? Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51929-concerned-oil-or-fuel-around-plugs/
Share on other sites

G'day Ronin 09

we have had wet plugs a few times in my car, missfiring also. Went through 5 to 6 sets of plugs before finding the correct type and gap. (they would always get fouled up). Last time I had the problem car wouldnt even start, found that the plugs were wet with fuel. Now I have correct plugs and gaps and new coils and havent had problem since.

Just my thoughts anyway. Cheers

Hi Stacey,

Thanks for that info... I have my plugs gapped at 0.8 (it was missing at any larger gap) and the car actually doesn't like starting all the time - needs alot of cranking to turn over.

In your situation, wouldn't all the plugs be wet? Only #2 and #3 are in my case. I am going to pull them out now and check them out again

Thanks heaps

oil fouling (wet) usually means that oil is getting into the combustion chamber.

They have oil on the electrode and tip, but you said that the electrode and tip were clean so im not to sure where the oil is coming from.

Oil fouled plugs make an engine missfire bad which is a symtom you have.

Check for worn piston rings, valve stem seals and valve guides.

I dont it would be fuel because it leaves dry carbon on the tip and electrode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...