Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey - some nice big turbos going on there.

I myself would never go bigger than the HKS3040 (on a 2.5L) - having driven for the last 6 months with one - it's right at the top end for my taste in driving - Although I do like winning Dyno comps with it.

At the drags, it hits so hard, its either bog down or wheel spin. But you sort of get used to it - I am still such a crap launcher. To use all that power properly at the drags, I would need to change my whole suspension setup and run drag radials for launch ability - And then, I would prolly break something else - (driveshaft, diff, gearbox)

On the circuit - the only place is used all 330rwkw is down Eastern Creek straight -everywhere else I am in 3rd gear and use low boost.

Anyway - each to their own.

Good luck with the projects and look forward to seeing some results.

BTW - Cameron - you strut brace is going to get VERY hot ;)

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Skyrine Dave I would be very suspicious of a flush 4 bolt exhaust housing , does not sound like propper GT style housing . If its a bastardised Euro flange T4 housing it will cost you performance . RS500 tried it and flicked it for the genuine housing , went MUCH better . All the ext gate GT housings should have the extended 4 bolt connical discharge plus the volute and nozzle shape are made to suit the paddle bladed UHP turbine .

Cheers A .

Whats the diff between xtr 3040,gt3040 or a hks 3040?

Who is the best value for money?i mean which makes the most power for least money ratio?

And Let me get this right...

A gt35 is a 35 front and back? a gt 3040 is a 40 front 30 back ?

So which is laggier like why doesnt it just cancel out and make the same power and lag??

All .82 rear housing.

B-Man looking at your pics it appears to be identical to my std garret 3040 or whatever people call them part no SB8006, the wheels are the same size and profile, the comp housing is the same, mine is using a 0.82 exh housing so its a bit hard to compare, but if anything thats the only difference, the shape of the exhause housing. what power are you making with that thing with what boost and other mods, cheers clint

Czy18e , I think its a bit like changing your final drive ratio from 4.1 to 3.1 and expecting the same acceleration . Same torque pushing greater load giving lazy acceleration . The principle of leverage ie the greater the radius the greater the torque for a given input works with radial inflow turbines as well .

Does anyone know if Garretts GT3040R is available in 50 compressor trim ?

I really would like to see back to back tests with the GT30R (3037) 56 trim and both GT3040's ie Garrett's 56 trim and HKS's 50 trim . I'm sure the turbine inlet pressure vs boost pressure would be equal with the 30R , higher with the 56T 3040 and a little better with the 50T HKS version .

B-Man looking at your pics it appears to be identical to my std garret 3040 or whatever people call them part no SB8006, the wheels are the same size and profile, the comp housing is the same, mine is using a 0.82 exh housing so its a bit hard to compare, but if anything thats the only difference, the shape of the exhause housing. what power are you making with that thing with what boost and other mods, cheers clint

330kw at the wheels Clint (RB25).

I was at a Dyno Comp recently and there was a RB30DET there with a Garret GT35 on it - Managed 319 at the wheels. Was talking to him afterwards and he says that there is more in it than that.

Cheers,

Does anyone know if Garretts GT3040R is available in 50 compressor trim ?  

I really would like to see back to back tests with the GT30R (3037) 56 trim and both GT3040's ie Garrett's 56 trim and HKS's 50 trim.

Dosn't the Garrett GT3040 (SB8006/SB8006A) have a 64 trim?

If you have a look around at some SAU members car's you can make a pretty broad assumption:

A camm'd RB25 will generally make ~330rwkw at ~18psi, this is flowing ~55lbs/min of air. The benefits of running the HKS 3040 (82mm) comp wheel doesn't come into play as it's already maxed the capacity of the compressor without needing the raised boost ceiling of it's comp map. Ideally the HKS GT3040 is for smaller motors that need the added boost to max the compressor, or in twin form at ludicrous boost pressures (Heeelllooooo 3 bar)

The "true" Garrett GT3040 turbos use a GT40 comp wheel that flows ~65lbs/min w/56trim comp wheel - this is the SB8006/SB8006A that Ray Hall has on his website. Should be good for another ~60rwkw.

I don't see why the GT35R turbo wouldn't make 400rwkw in RB30 form, with a properly "built" motor.

As reference material check out BMan vs Buster vs Steve vs that other dude in perth with one (sorry mind blank). Pretty much identical curves for different turbos that all max at ~55lbs/min.

GTS-Vspec (Paul).

DB - Do you really think it the compresor that is the limitting factor ?? I was thinking about this and if boost is going up but no more power , then doesn't this mean there is a restriction somewhere else (eg Zorst / head) - So if restriction was removed the extra boost would result in more flow ??? Just add fuel , means more power.

If you have a temp sensor in the intake you'd be able to see alot more about what's going on. As a dollar per hp thing, at your level it would be cheaper to get a new core ($1300) vs porting the head ($1300+). Even if you port the head you're still going to bounce off the compressor limit, although it would probably make more average power + torque... so goes back to what are you wanting out of your setup? Even changing the exhaust would make a bit more power, but that loud drone can be very very very annoying (I prefer driving the stock R33 vs the modded R33).

I think there is probably more in it, but the $ to hp is not worth it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol yeah I ordered the clips mentioned and as far as the amayama diagrams go i think thats all I'll need. Fogured id ask, sometimes people's first hand experience doesnt always match up to diagrams haha, i guess I'll wing it and worse comes to worse I'll just deal with it as I go
    • Thanks for all that information I appreciate it. To answer your questions: - Yep that's what I mean. These guys are professional painters to so I must be missing something. It's a bit hard to explain. - With the primer landing on clearcoat, I make sure that the surrounding clearcoat is scuffed to 240 grit as my epoxy primer says that I only need to sand the area to 240 grit. - Yeah so similar to the first question, assuming that the paint landed on the unscuffed clearcoat because I've seen that happen. - Yep I want to prep the surface in that order. Only reason because epoxy primer will protect it from rust and I need that atm with this crappy Sydney weather. I think I was worried about time, if I try to put the filler down but screw it up somehow and I don't have time to sand it off and reapply it then need to put primer later that it might start to rust again so I wanted to apply the primer as quick as possible to not deal with rust.  - I just deleted some answers, I just realised after watching a video and what you said about looking at the data sheet, that I need to read the data sheet on the specific filler I'm using. It's possible now that I put epoxy primer first was a waste of time and need to go to bare metal lol
    • I did. I went to a suspension guy and he told me because I don't have adjustable camber arms it's the reason why my car veers towards the left if I take my hands off the wheel but if I drive my other every day car and take my hands off the steering wheel it goes completely straight. I think it's common with Skyline's. In order to fix the problem, I likely need gktech camber arms then nismo bushes since I have poly bushes atm, then a wheel alignment after that. With my car if I take my hands off the steering wheel on a really bumpy road before stopping at a light I have to hold my steering wheel somewhat tight otherwise my car will legit just go completely in the other direction quite quickly and I'll slam into something lol instead of stopping straight. I Believe this YouTuber had the same issue and fixed it with gktech arms. At timestmap 6:05 he talks about how the car doesn't veer anymore after installing these arms.  
    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
×
×
  • Create New...