Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pictures at: http://members.optushome.com.au/domeye/4sale/

Prices Are Firm: Will do trade for other goods of value.

Call 0401698552 or email [email protected]

Advan Racing Rims (3 spoke) 17x8 + 17x9 (little thread on tyres) = $1195 ($250 for 4 x 2nd hand tyres to fit - decent thread)

Stock r33 rims no tyres (immaculate condition) = $245

Pursuit Rims with Soft Compound Tyres (off r33) = $295

German 800watt Amp (4 channel) = $295

Kenwood Double Din Headunit with Stacker = $595

Pionneer Double Din Headunit = $395

r33 floor mats = $145

Stock r33 air box = $65

Stock r33 air box attachment (snorkal) = $25

front stock r33 suspension (struts) = $95

Ultra Automated Turbo Timer with harness (gold buttons) = $75

Ultra Automated Turbo Timer with harness (silver buttons) = $75

Automated FET Turbo Timer with harness = $75

Hks Super Dragger Exhuast (catback - missing flange) = $395 (with stock exhuast trade) or $495 as it is.

Snap On Tools Seat Cover (Black) x 2 = $45

17" BBS Rims (mesh rims with no tyres) off a WRX = $495

17" White Rims Semi-dish (5 spoke with no tyres) off a s13 silvia = $645

6x9 Speakers Sony 160watt - $85

6x9 Speakers Kenwood 220watt (has small puncture) - $45

2 x odd front speakers = $45

Boxed speakers Pionneer with inbuilt tweeters = $150

Generic Brand Pod filter (no adaptor) = $25

Generic Brand Pod filter (with adaptor - rb25det, sr20det) = $45

Blow off valve with rb25det adaptor = $85

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks man, I appreciate that. I'll keep it in mind going forward, important to know.
    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
×
×
  • Create New...