Jump to content
SAU Community

New Stagea owner

BensDR30

By BensDR30,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

I'd just like to say 'Hi' from a new WGNC34 RS-Four owner :)

I'm no stranger to (turbo) Nissans, owning a L28 Turbo 240Z, DR30 RS-X Turbo Skyline & now the RS-Four. My sister owns a GTi-R, and my dad has a 240Z (RB25DE), 1500 Fairlady, 2-door LHD 510 (VG30ET) & a original-owner 510 (FJ20E).

Some of you may know me from Ozdat, or if you're into the 'Z' family, HybridZ, ClassicZcars, or the IZCC mailing list (among others).

I've had my eye on the Stagea ever since Viper Motorsports had one here in Adelaide a few years back. Recently I made the decision to save my DR30 from the daily grind & get something a little more 'practical' while still maintaining pedigree. Enter the Stagea....

Only had it a few days, but must say it's a beauty. VERY impressed.

I have (had?) a couple of queries:

1. The diff control button on the dash - explained in another thread. Too easy!

2. My car has another switch adjacent the diff control labelled 'Light Reduce'. Anyone know what 'light' it 'reduces'?

3. The momentry action switch on the drivers side of the dash - is it side-window demist?

4. There is a slight 'click' that appears to be coming from the rear-right of the car just as the vehicle starts to move, sometimes a couple of clicks. Something is loose, the click is not loud, but it does occur in reverse & drive but ONLY as the car starts moving. If you let the car creep & then accelerate (gently), it does not happen. It cannot be heard with the windows up, but when down it is quite audible.

I suspect it's the brake pads moving in the caliper, which I shall investigate in the very near future. Other threads have suggested everything from wheel bearings to tailshaft joints & everything in between. So it seems that everyone's cause is different (as would be the noise).

Aside from that, it drives like a dream.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52722-new-stagea-owner/
Share on other sites
Enterthestagea Explorer

Enterthestagea

Posted
Posted

I figured it was something to do with the automatic linkages/controls. I've never looked to even see if they we external even. Didn't really concern me as a big problem, one day it would just stop and then I might find out? "Oh.... so thats what the noise was" general response and then fix it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52722-new-stagea-owner/#findComment-1037639
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok people, I think I've narrowed down the cause of the 'clicking' coming from the rear of the car (left & right it seems)....

Examining the wheel area when moving the car under power reveals 2 things:

1. The pads move in the caliper (as suspected).

2. The caliper flexes on the caliper pins.

I believe that the latter is the cause of the noise - the friend who helped me on this reported that his rally car (fitted with R30 discs/calipers) used to make the same noise. There was NO WAY it was bearings/mounts/bushes/diff on his car & I have thouroughly inspected my car & discovered no loose or noisy components.

So, my thoughts are to possibly fit replace the factory sliding calipers with some R33 2-spots (and perhaps fit 4-spots on the front).

Are the rear (and front) discs compatible? And has anyone else fitted GTS25t brakes to their C34?

PS - I've also got a translated owners manual on the way, which should explain the 'light reduce' function. The switch on the right side of the column is also most likely the side-mirror de-ice controls.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52722-new-stagea-owner/#findComment-1053566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...