Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not if it is doing it at idle as well. Most like be the tappets. Check your oil level and make sure the engine is topped up. Maybe use a thicker oil and this will keep the tappets quite, although this is only a temporary fix.

rebuild

lol

anyway

i doubt it would be the lifters, as they are usually noisy when the motor is cold, and the noise would happen all the time and especially if you leave it without driving for a few days, and the noise would increase in frequency with revs.

what u have explained does not sound like lifters..

try and different oil, i cant think of what it would be...

btw. i wouldnt use those oil additives/flushes if i were you, they might cause more problems than they solve, ie. they gunk can get cleaned of then all get stuck in chunks somewhere else in the engine.

best to just change the oil a few times with cheap oil.

i doubt it would be the lifters, as they are usually noisy when the motor is cold, and the noise would happen all the time and especially if you leave it without driving for a few days, and the noise would increase in frequency with revs.

Sorry to hijack, but do u get rid of this? Currently using Castrol Magnatec, after changing from a 15W/40 rating, noise goes away after the oil change but comes back again after a couple of days.

Cheers

Hey, 15/40 sounds normal, and you should use an oil of similar rating 10/40 or whatever,

i have found that if it is bad, use cheap oil(magnatec or whatever) for about 500-100kms and then change it for oil you would normally use(synthetic of similar weight) which sort of flushes the system.

so i dont think it is the brand of oil, its just that u have one or more sticky lifters. open the bonnet and you can probably hear which ones are bad..

yeah i have seen the guide ur talking about..too bad its not that easy..

cams would have to come out, but i dont think it would be a bad job. i have replaced the cams in rb25.. not really a difficult job i guess just fidly. u just have to have a torque wrench to make sure u attach them back properly and evenly (the cams can crack in half, my exhaust one did!)

when i started the car afterwars one lifter was SO NOISY like crazy!!! i was scared it would be like that forever!!! it was bloody loud. after a good run it quietened down :D

but then again when we put them back in the head was sitting on the ground, not on the bottom end so it made things easy.

  • 4 months later...

:mad:I've got a lifter problem as well... I think? It started about 6 months ago after a major service! But it is weird, because lifters usually tap when the engine is cold. When I first start my car in the morning (cold) it starts and runs at the high rev warm up mode, while it is warming up I have a smoke and coffee, usually about 10-15mins... no tapping. Then all of a sudden the engine slows down once it is warm and the temperature guage says so.... then tap, tap, tap, tap!!! WTF this goes away after a short drive... whats going on?

Just to clear something up. Lifters don't tap. The rockers do. And as for not doing it unless cold. That is incorrect, if you have a sticky lifter it will cause a tapping noise all the time. Sometimes they unstick once the oil has warmed up.

Thicker oil is not really the best option either. A thinner oil will get rid of a noisy lifter more often than not. It is the gunk built up in the lifter that prevents it from filling with oil properly. The thinner oil allows better flow through the smaller spaces thus allowing the lifter to 'pump' up.

As for products. This is your best option to free up a sticky lifter as it doesn't just brake off chunks of gunk and leave it floating around the engine in it's full size (speaking of which, lifter veins are virtually smaller than any other oil passage in the whole engine to to get stuck in anything other than another lifter would be highly unlikely) The product will break down the sludge or gunk into much smaller pieces and then they travel to the sump and eventually go through the oil filter which picks them up.

My Suggestion:

Run Wynns engine flush for 10 km

Drain ALL old oil. Try to use a clear container so you can examine the old oil. You could even go so far as to strain it through paper towel to locate any impurities so that you can identify them.

Change Oil filter

Refill oil with Synthetic grade oil. Somthing like a 10 or a 15 weight.

If the noise is still there, you may have to try manually cleaning them.

If that doesn't fix it then you'll have to buy new lifters. Assuming that is the problem in the first place. I always recommend getting a professional opinion before replacing anything. Especially when those lifter cost $700-$800 for a set.

Lifters

Shims are only spacers which space the buckets to the followers. They come in all different thicknesses for setting valve clearance instead of hydraulic or adjustable.

They can be found on GTR's.

The GTST's don't have shimable buckets, they have hydraulic lifters.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...