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Building a reliable racer engine. dry sump...

Dayna

By Dayna,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Dayna Explorer

Dayna

Posted
Posted

Ok,

I have a R32 RB26DETT in my Cefiro, I use this on the street but mainly on the track in Drift Competitions.

I want this engine to be reliable, so have planned to spend a little bit of money to do the following mods, whats your thoughts, and anything else I should think of.

The engines ideal state will be around 450RWHP which is shit loads really, but hey why not. this is in the future with suitable turbos, computer, etc.

BUT FOR NOW:

I am going to pull engine down.

Get the Rods balanced, shot peened and new ARP rod bolts fitted.

Remove standard Oil Pump? (not sure if this is necessary for dry sump setup)

Install external 3-4(unsure of what is needed) stage oil pump, oil canister, remote filter, large oil cooler,

Modify standard sump for scavenging returns

Oil feed restrictor in block to prevent flooding of cam areas.

Change aloy plugs in crankshaft with cap screws (i heard they can fall out with high pressure oil pump)

Use standard gasket set, or aftermarket gasket set(tomei?) any point going tomei?

Is there anything important that i should know in regards to dry sumping the engine, anyone that has done this, i would be interested to know the plumbing side of it, i know how the dry sump works but actual real life plumbing of the rb26 would be helpful.

If bearings and rings are in good nick i will leave them alone.

With these basic mods, what power should i be able to support all day long?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Dayna

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Dayna, dry sumping adds complexity and is not cheap, plus there are some convenience issues. Usually for good weight distrubution you would put the tank in the boot and run the lines though the cabin, as underneath is asking for them to get hit. The breather tank would also normally go in the boot as you have to vent the dry sump tank as would an oil filter. Add that to the fuel system plumbing and this makes the boot unuseable for carrying anything, even the spare wheel can be a hassle.

We have raced Skylines for a number of years and found a good winged and baffled sump to be very very effective in preventing oil surge. We have on board data logging in the race cars and I have never seen any evidence of oil surge, and we pull some serious lateral G's.

I have looked at a lot of very serious drift cars and haven't seen any with a dry sump system. Not saying that there aren't any, just that I haven't seen them.

For your purposes, personally I think dry sumping is an overkill. Get a good winged and baffled sump and use the saved money on other things to improve the competitive performance.:)

Dayna Explorer

Dayna

Posted
  • Author
Posted

taking up boot space wouldn't worry me, i don't use the boot. Its pretty much a drift car, thats road legal.

Well, lets look at some costings that i've come across so far.

To Fix the r32 crank collar issue will cost me $550

for a good oil cooler kit will cost me $550

How much for a baffled sump setup? $400?,

best to make my own? or buy an off the shelf aftermarket one? I don't want to extend the sump lower than it is for ground clearance reasons.

uprated standard placement fit oil pump $1750!! !NEW

TOTAL standard internal option setup = $3250

lets compare to a dry sump setup.

? stage pump complete setup $1500 s/h sourced from USA

oil cooler $250

Adapters (oil filter, remote adapter) $200

Oil Lines $200

obviously would cost a bit more to run lines to the rear of vehicle if i did do this.

sump mods $200 (guessing)

DRY SUMP TOTAL = $2150 + $500 over budget

It seems to me cheaper to sort out a dry sump system, and superior in some ways, i know it seems an over kill, but cost wise, why not?

are you saying i can get away with the standard r32 oil pump? that would save $$$ but still be very close priced to the dry sump setup, and being that the dry sump setup would have better oil pressure etc..

sure money is always an issue and i would like to save hassle and money. but would also like to be cost effect that i am getting the best bang for my buck. and if the dry sump cost a few hundred more, i thought it would make sense to go this way.

A good mechanic friend of mine pointed me towards the dry sump option, as he landed in NZ a complete setup for his V8 drag car for $1200, pump, tank, lines, earl fittings from USA (second hand)

thats the info in front of me at the moment.....

Dayna

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