Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys, thinking of doing this conversion ?? need to know if anyone can tell me exactly what i need, can i get the parts just from an ER34 ?!?!?

any information would be greatly appreciated

Regards,

Ashley Neal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54183-c34-with-r34-front/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
www.masamotorsports.com

its a kit not the same panels as an er34

costs about 7 grand there was a guy in qld actually who inported one of the kits and was looking making them up dont know how he got on tho

I know this might have been covered before, but would the BCNR34 front bolt on? or is the only option to buy this fibglass? conversion kit.

Cheers.

Take a look at the Stagea front guards, you will find that they are much higher than Skyline guards. This means you can't use Skyline front guards on a Stagea, plus the door trim and the crease lines are in different places. So you have to buy aftermarket guards. Otherwise everything off an R34 would fit (bonnet, headlights, radiator support panel, bonnet latch mechanism, bumper, inner guards etc). There is one other thing you need to do and that is make spacers to lift the bonnet up to the height of the guards.

In summary, sounds easy but it isn't.:)

too expensive and a real bitch if you have a car accident.

i dont think frp front guards would stop much of an impact.

i think i would prefer a body kit that allows an fmic but doesnt try to make the car into something it isnt.

But hey to each his own I guess.

Glenn

I'm looking at this conversion as i want an FMIC, but my front end won't allow it without some major hacking, and that just won't do.  

Maybe a group buy could be organised if enough people want it?

Their is a lot of room their, all that my front has cut off it the number plate bracket, C-red's car is the same with the different front bar to me, I think it is more for looks than any thing else.

Get a Blitz, Greedy or HKS kit that fits nicely, trying to make a one off they usualy just cut instead of working out how to do it properly.

yeah, i don't have the stock front bar, i don't know if you can make it out from my avatar, but there's a lip attached. for an FMIC to fit, i'd have to hack away the piece of the bar that this lip is attached to, meaning the lip would fall off.

I haven't tried to fit an FMIC in yet obviously though, are you using a 600 x 300?

HI,

I have a used R34 GTR bumper if anyone is interested - $500

Also have a Trust 600 x 300 x 100 Drag FMIC to suit as well. It is actually a kit with all piping, HKS SSQ BOV, 300ZX AFM, and HKS POD filter. Whole thing for $1200 + freight or pick up in Brisvegas...

Have a R32 GTR now, with all the bits, so don't need this stuff anymore...

Supa

0412 631 081

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...